Recommendations from 356Talk Members
(Ken Daugherty:) One method to clean the 356 oil cooler is to turn it upside down, fill with lacquer thinner and let soak overnight. In the morning, drain it and then refill with Simple Green or Bleche White and let soak for another day. Then drain it and rinse thoroughly with hot water until it runs clear. Blow it out and refill with WD40 (it is a water dispersant) and drain and blow dry. Fill with clean motor oil and let stand until ready to use.
(Wyatt Blankenship, Tom Martinez, and other recommend:) Lanfried Ultrasonic Cleaning, 20730 South Main St, Carson, CA. Contact: Jerry Marquez. Tel. 327-8930.
(Alan Klinger at The Stable says:) Send it to Ultrasonic Cleaning in Carson, CA. They will get it absolutely clean, clean enough to FAA certify it. If you could see the process they is no way you can replicate it. They flush and filter the effluents with special solvents and they check the flushed solvent for de...
By Charles L. Navarro Provided courtesy of LN Engineering
Summary: What oil should I use in my 356?
[Ed: The question of "What oil should I use in my 356?" is often asked. Below is what Charles Navarro suggests, depending on whether you want to use traditional oil or a synthetic formulation.]
When in doubt, look at the label. Do not use an API SM or API CJ-4 motor oil in your Porsche 356. Also, it is best to use an oil that does not need supplemental additives!
Inexpensive Dino Oil: Kendall GT 20w50 or Castrol GTX 20w50 (or it's High Mileage formulation). I'm not a big fan of GTX, but if changed often, it's okay.
Good Dino Oil: Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil 10w40 or 20w50. This oil is easy to find and comes with an API SF/SG/SJ rating.
Best Non-Synthetic Dino Oil: Swepco 15w40 "306" motor oil. Many shops who had been using Mobil 1 have switched to this and most if not all their problems (including bearing failures) went away.
Best Semi-Synthetic:Brad Penn Racin...
By John Wilhoit
We performed four comparisons using our latest 1925TR 356 engine with a stock Dansk muffler, the NLA Dansk Supersound muffler, the Bursch 1.5" header (with street muffler and race stinger), and the WR 1925TR Sport muffler. These tests were performed at Carobu Engineering in Costa Mesa, California, on their DTS engine dyno, in February 2007.
The 1925TR is very streetable but is by no means a mild engine. The peak power is at 6000 rpm and peak torque is around 5000 rpm. These are recorded during a full throttle sweep from 3200-6500 rpm in which the performance is recorded and calculated by the dyno at 100 rpm intervals.
The dyno also plots the fuel curve at 100 rpm intervals across the entire run using a lambda sensor. In the 356 engine there is always a dip (richness) in this curve just below peak torque, which is made worse by the use of a sport cam. The tuning and back pressure of the exhaust can help this (as you'll see in the tests), but it can't...
Everyone has their favorite muffler in terms of the sound it produces. But have you ever wondered how your favorite muffler stacks up in terms of performance? Thanks to Alan of The Stable in San Francisco, you don't have to wonder any longer.
Let's let Alan take it from here....
Click an image to view it full size
Here are the results of my dyno test of 4 common mufflers used on the 356. The first one is the stock unit with its tail pipes. Second the Bursch street legal system that has the large oval muffler in it. Third the Euro sport system that is just straight pipes with a couple of resonator boxes in it looks very much like the 4 cam "Sebring" system. The last system is the Porsche "sport" type, which has a couple of tail pipes that exit under the body works.
The test motor is a fresh rebuild 1600S, 356A, that is stock except for the NPR pistons and cylinders, Elgin 6607 cam much like a 356C cam, port matching, stock distributor set to 36 degrees ma...
By Maurice P. Cruz, the Phillipines
Start-up / Break-in Guidelines
1. Spin engine without spark plugs to circulate the oil before start-up.
2. Use Bosch W6BC spark plugs (.46" extended tip electrode) or W5AC
3. Valve clearances : a. on a new engine, set at 0.008" for all valves for the first 30 - 50 miles b. then set valves to 0.001" more than standard or; c. after break in : set intake at 0.005" set exhaust at 0.007" (Ed: note that factory clearances are .004" intake and .006" exhaust and are preferred by many)
4. For break-in, set timing to TDC. After 2000 - 3000 miles, reset dynamic timing to 30 degrees total advance at 3500 RPM.
5. Keep RPM below 4000 - 4500 for first 500 - 1000 miles.
6. Drive at low but variable speed at cool temperatures
7. Oil temp should not exceed 210 degrees
8. Change engine oil and clean screen/magnet at : 50 miles, 300 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and thereafter...
Harry Pellow: Try the Maestro's Patented "Binary Search" procedure to find your miss. This technique will narrow the problem down to the individual cylinder (orside) that's bad in two minutes, making it much easier to find and fix the problem.
Before you do the test, you might want to check that the plug wires are installed properly on the correct plugs, the plugs are clean (or new), and the timing (low and high speed) are in the right ballpark.
First find a flat, straight road with no traffic. Go there.
Go to engine. Disconnect the downcoming linkage rod to one carburetor.
Drive car on one carburetor. It'll drive poorly of course, but a good 356 oughta get up to 50+ mph, given long enough and flat enough. If it does do 50mph, stop.
Connect the linkage arm you disconnected and disconnect the other one. Drive on the other carb. If one side only does 25-30 mph, you have a bad cylinder on that side.
Stop. Get out an...
By Ron Scoma
Call it what you will, Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder, Anal Retentive, being a craftsman, or just plain having no life; this is what I did to Cad plate stuff.
Get a list of all items to be plated (thanks Maestro) Find the parts in the Bucket O' Stuff and count the items. Soak in orange cleaner to somewhat degrease, rinse. Soak in Carb Cleaner to really degrease, rinse. Soak in Muriatic acid to remove prior plating. DON'T let the acid come in contact with aluminum (tin foil) trays, I'm not sure why you shouldn't but the end results were very bad. You may not have a screaming S.O. shouting "where's the checkbook, I need to increase your life insurance ?" but still, even without that bonus, the effects were pretty bad. Neighbors in the unit next door were curious also... At this stage you have parts free of grease and oil. Blast with a 50/50 c...
By Mike Robbins, Al Zim, Jim at Easy, Harry Pellow
Q: I have a 356 cylinder head of unknown origin. It has a stamp of 30/5. What kind of head is this, and how else can I confirm that?
A: Although your Date Stamp of 30/5 infers about July, 1965 (week "30" in year sixty "5") and thus a 912 Head, the Factory did make other heads at the time too.
Here's the quickest way to determine the head type, if the valves are stock and if you have a caliper or dividers and an accurate rule. If the heads have 31mm exhaust valves they are 356A or 356B. If they have 38mm intake valves they are N or S. If they have 40mm intake valves they are S-90. If they have 34mm exhaust valves they are 356C or 912. If the holes on ea side of the intake ports go through into the rocker chamber they are 356C. If those holes are blind into bosses in the rocker chamber they are 912. Read the numbers off the valves through the spring, or take the valves out. 91...
By Vince Cappelletti, Tom Farnam, Geoff Fleming, and Dan Schaefer
Bosch Plug Old / New Part Number Equivalents (provided by Al Zim)
Normal plug for 356
Hot plug use in VW
Normal plug for VW
356/912 leaded gas plug
Editor: The question of what plugs to use in our now 40-plus year-old cars is a frequent one. Fortunately, there are several good choices. Bosch WR7BP platinum (Bosch plug 4232) and NGK BP6HS or BPR6HIX are often used in the 356. Below are specific comments from several experienced 356ers. But if you buy your plugs from well known Registry advertisers they know what should be used in your car! There is no need to guess or listen to someone at an auto parts store who has never seen a 356 and is too young to know what a carburetor is. Additional ...
By Ron LaDow
I wish I could credit this properly: I'm sure it was in a Henry Manny F1 review in Road and Track: "If you need two plugs, there's something wrong with your chamber". It related to a Maserati, and is suitably snotty, but there's a point there.
356 engines improve with the addition of a second spark plug in each cylinder. They improve in overall efficiency, both power and economy. And since the application does not effect engine breathing (with the resultant compromises), it improves matters at just about every RPM which has been tested. Improved overall efficiency means a 356 runs stronger, cooler and with less fuel.
Firing Later, and More Evenly, Maximizes the "Rod Angle"
The reason has to do with the fact that the mixture in the chamber must burn at a given rate, not explode. The burning causes the pressure to rise in the chamber, and that's what pushes the piston down that hole, connected by the rod, thereby rotating the crank.
Ideally, the pressur...