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Headlight and Parking Light Types

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Charlie White Sources and Caveats The following reference materials were used for this article: (1) Factory Parts Books for 356 Pre-A, 356-A, 356-B T-5, and Supplements for 356-B T-6, & 356-C. (2) Factory Owner's Manuals for 356 Pre-A, 356-A, 356-B T-5, 356-B T-6 and 356-C, (various years 1951-1965). (3) Factory Workshop Manuals for 356 Pre-A, 356-A, 356-B T-5, and Supplements for 356-B T-6, & 356-C. With the 356 there are always exceptions, and I want to mention some of the possibilities: (1) The factory really did it that way (factory original)! (2) Sometimes the factory did it differently for some special customer. (3) The factory did it in a variety of ways, depending on supplier or parts availability. (4) The factory did it different ways depending on where the car was to be shipped (USA or Europe, for example). (5) The Distributor did it that way. (6) The Dealer did it that way (dealer installed options). (7) The previous owner changed it or upgraded it, an...

Headlight Assemblies — "Sealed Beam" & "Euro"

September 23, 2010 | Research & Identification | 0 Comments
By Brad Ripley Reprinted from the 356 Registry Magazine Volume 19-2, by kind permission of Gordon Maltby In my daily work, I often get questions on the phone about headlights, bulbs, and lenses which usually come from lack of knowledge and incorrectly assembled light units. Therefore, I hope the following information will correct any confusion and help you make your 356 more authentic. "Sealed Beam" Headlights These units are by far the most prevalent on 356s in the U.S. and still are the only (strictly) legal lights allowed. The key words, Sealed Beam, refer to the high and low beam filaments sealed inside the reflector and the lens (see drawings below). Porsche Kardex entries are indicated as "sealed beam Scheinwerfer Einsatze." The sealed beam design was a U.S. invention and came into being about 1940. It was thought that the reflector would never go dull because it was entirely sealed. Note that the lens of this unit focuses the light, not the clear glass cover...

Safely Jumping a 6 Volt Battery with a 12 Volt

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 6 Comments
By Ray Knight, Geoff Fleming, Harry Pellow, and Steve Proctor   Ray Knight: I have no experience with Optima, so my comments are regarding 12V jumping of 6V cars. I will try to separate what is written from my own experience. There are several problems and/or potential problems with jumping a 6V car with 12V. You can or will fry any lights (so turn them off) and consider pulling the fuse for the clock or disconnecting it. You can or will fry any radio or digital electronic gadgets (so remove or turn them off). You can explode a battery. This chance is very low, but higher if the battery is near totally dead or if the weak battery is frozen. The explosion is related to gases given off in the battery and sparking, so the risk is less if the final ground connection is made remote from the weak battery. Explosions can and do occur with same voltage jumping. Explosions are truly rare, but the resultant burns can be painful, and eye damage can be permanent. All current ...

Using an 8V Battery in a 6V Car — Why Not To Do It

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Barry Lee Brisco A not uncommon complaint in the world of 6 volt 356 owners is that their cars are hard to start. Various "solutions" are proposed, the most common being a conversion to 12 volts, a somewhat costly and time-consuming operation that results in a major departure from stock. A slightly less high voltage approach is installing an 8 volt battery for just a bit more "oomph" when starting. But this leads to a new set of problems. To charge the 8V battery, your generator will be putting out 9.6V, so you will have to adjust the CO and VR settings in your voltage regulator (if you don't, the battery will discharge rapidly). Since wattage is a function of voltage squared divided by resistance, the 8V battery will be delivering nearly double the wattage (9.6V squared = 92 watts) of the stock 6V battery (7.2V squared = 53 watts). All the bulbs in your car will be operating at a significantly higher voltage than they were not designed for (ever try to find 8V b...

Bosch Black Coil vs. Blue Coil

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Joe Leoni Q1: What's the difference between a Bosch black coil and their blue coil--besides the color? It took a little time to pull a couple of coils out and check them over. I would like to defer this to the ex-Motorola gentlemen who wrote of the merits of CD ignition, but here it goes: Black Coil Blue Coil Size Larger Smaller Primary Resistance 1.0 ohms 1.3 ohms Secondary Resistance 10.6K ohms 8.95K ohms Turns ratio (calculated with 60hz power) 107.5 80.6 The Ignition Transformer is configured as an auto transformer, but the decaying flux in the primary allows a greater induced secondary voltage than the ratio would suggest. The Blue coil has a smaller turns ratio and this would indicate that the current is higher for the same spark voltage. The Blue coil also has a higher resistance primary which would reduce distributor current. Higher voltage does not necessaril...

Electric Tach Reads Low at Night: Why?

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Joe Leoni Electric Tach Reads Low at Night: Why? Link to PDF file

How the VDO Ammeter Works

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Joe Leoni How the VDO Ammeter Works Link to PDF file

Voltage Regulator Adjustment

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
By Joe Leoni Link to PDF file: Voltage Regulator Adjustment

Generator Removal

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
Text by Sterling Vaden, photos by Scott Douglas If you want to remove the generator, it is not necessary to remove the fan first. The procedure is as follows (photos show a 1969 912 engine): Disconnect the battery. Remove the pulleys and fan belt. Remove the coil, then the oil filter. The nuts that hold the coil are on the front side of the fan shroud. Don't drop them, or their big flat washers. Now remove the bracket that holds the oil filter. Again, the nuts are on the front of the fan shroud. In the photo you can see that the coil has not been completely removed, just the right hand mount bolt loosened so that the oil filter mounting bracket can be moved out of the way of the generator. Remove the four screws holding the generator pan to the fan housing. Loosen the strap holding the generator. Remove the generator wires from the generator. Slide it back part way. Remove the two bolts and two nuts holding the generator stand to the case. Now you can slide ...

Starter Removal: in Detail

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Text and photos by Ab Tiedemann The work procedure for removing the starter motor or the engine will require removing one or both of the through bolts that secure each to the transmission housing. The assembly at each upper interface consists of a 10 mm diameter fastener, a wavy washer and a nut. Removal of either of these fasteners can be troublesome, especially the longer of the two, a M10 x 110 DIN 931 8g [now 8.8] that secures the starter motor. The DIN 931 specification indicates that this is a hexagonal head, partially threaded fastener with a standard [coarse] thread and the hexagonal is 17mm across the flats [ATF]. The wavy washer is a B10 DIN 137 where B means that it has a double curvature. The specified nut is a M10 DIN 934 6s, which is a hexagonal nut that is 17 mm ATF. Original finish was black oxide or the German equivalent for all elements of the assembly. What this means is that you will need tooling that is compatible with a 17mm "wrench size". ...