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Auxiliary Audio Input Jack for Older Radios

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Russ Collins   Here's a schematic for an MP3/Satellite/iPod/iPhone audio input jack for older radios. I use it to play an iPhone through a Blaupunkt in a 1959 Porsche. It's not stereo; but it sounds ok, is loud enough, and maintains the radio's originality. It involves adding a miniature phone jack to the side of the radio and performing some minor re-wiring inside the radio. Plugging in any external audio switches the radio from internal audio to the external source. Parts are around $5 from Radio Shack: One 1/8" Stereo Phone Jack, part number 274-0246 Two 0.1 Microfarad (MFd), 50 Volt ceramic disk capacitors, part # 272-0135 (package of two). Two 100 Ohm, 1/8 Watt carbon film resistors, part number 271-0005 (package of 5). With the radio in the car, determine a suitable location for the jack. Be sure the dashboard support doesn't get in the way. This photo shows a typical location. A more important consideration is the space inside the radio. This pho...

Engine Running Stand Wiring Diagram

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
  I realized making a fast on the floor hook up to test out an engine was not rocket science; but I could never find a good "how to" diagram that had an "in car" type set up. I designed one that uses all 356 components, and I am building it now out of an old trans case, small gas tank, etc. Using this diagram, a person can set up an engine to run on the floor that will test out gauges, switch, generator, senders, volt regulator, starter and other components. Much easier to run one of these, test things out, adjust carbs etc, before you go into the car. Download this diagram as a PDF file, print it out for a garage reference.

HLr Relay Kit Installation Tips

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
Text and photos by Barry Lee Brisco 356 headlights are not known for the luminousity (though in their day they clearly outclassed any British sports car!) but improvement is relatively easy to come by. The combination of H4 bulbs along with Joe Leoni's HLr kit (particularly advantageous in T5/T6 models with the headlight dimmer function on the steering column) can more than double the light output compared to the stock system. This is well worth doing to any 356 that gets much night use, or for those who like the idea of running headlights during the day for extra safety Installing the Leoni HLr kit is easy, and the instructions provided are very clear. In T5 and earlier cars, removing the glove box first is essential (T6 cars have the fuse box in the trunk and this description and photos don't apply). This is readily done by removing the screw that is visible just above the glovebox door hinge when the door is opened. No need to remove the upper screw. The only di...

Soldering Bullet Connectors

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Bruce Tews #1 – Cleaning the soldering gun #2 – Splashing old solder from the bullet #3 Tinning the cleaned gun tip #4 Tinning wire before placing the bullet #5 Heating the bullet before applying solder Use a soldering gun if possible. High heat for a short time is better than low heat for a long time. Always clean the soldering tip with a damp paper towel before every de-soldering or soldering attempt! (photo #1) And, as always, wear eye protection! If using a used bullet connector still attached to a wire, heat the bullet and pull it off with a needle nose pliers. To clean an old bullet, hold it in a needle nose pliers by the bullet's sides with the big hole facing down. Heat it with a soldering gun, and, when hot, bang the pliers on a hard surface without allowing the bullet to hit anything. Solder will spatter out (photo #2) and the inside of the connector will be clean and nicely tinned. You may need to do this more than...

Point Wear and Timing

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Pat Tobin   Q: Are there better ignition points to use than others for a 356? Should I set point gap before or after setting my dynamic timing? A: In Vic Skirmants's column in the current Registry (vol23 #5 --ed.), he quotes a friend as reporting that the current (!) replacement Bosch points for our distributors "use a white nylon rubbing block" and that the nylon blocks "tend to expand with use. This not only increases your dwell, but also tends to advance the timing..." I have a little different take on this. The "normal" (older) rubbing blocks are fiber, and even when running with a light coat of grease, they wear slowly. However, points which are in a conventional (non-electronic) ignition system also "wear;" actually the surfaces are burned and eroded away by the passage of current and the heat and other effects that deterioration which result from that current. So the wear of the rubbing block and that of t...

Removing T2 Wiper Assembly

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
By Brian Adams   The following is from memory, and applies to a T2 coupe: Put an old blanket on the passenger-side floor; you're going to livethere for a time, on your back. The best position for most of the work is (passenger seat pushed back) lying on your back in front of passenger seat, legs out of car, except for fiddling with the electrical connections, which are best accessed from the driver's side, working around the bottom of the steering wheel. Remove the topside wiper parts, so that just the shafts protrude through the holes in the body. Remove the glove box. Disconnect main battery ground (there is power at the motor even when key is off, for the park circuit.) Remove the electrical connections at the motor. (Carefully document what goes where, of course). Pop the passenger-side actuator rod off at both ends (ball/sockets) where it attaches to the passenger-side gearbox arm, and at the motor arm. Po...

Safe Jacking of Your 356

September 23, 2010 | Safety & Driving | 0 Comments
Or, How to Stop Worrying and Lift Your Car By Tom Farnam and Barry Lee Brisco (With thanks to Ken Daugherty, Ron LaDow, Ray Knight, Dick Weiss, and Bruce Baker for review and comments)   Knowing the safe way to jack up your 356 is essential to preventing damage to your body, not to mention protecting your valuable car! Here are some tips based on the collective experience of several veteran 356 owners. First Block Your Wheels Before you raise your car, block the wheels for safety, even if you are only jacking up one side and you have the emergency brake on. What if it suddenly pops off because you didn't quite fully engage it? Blocking the wheels only takes a moment.   Do Not Use The Original Jack And Jack Points! If you have an original 356 jack, by all means keep it correctly stowed in the trunk for car shows if that's your thing, but avoid using it, even in an emergency. Call for a tow instead if you have no other safe alternative. Original jacks were noto...

Classic Car Insurance: Actual Cash Value, Stated Value, Agreed Value

September 23, 2010 | Safety & Driving | 0 Comments
Link to an article by Holly Bromberg about classic car insurance and the difference between "Actual Cash Value", "Stated Value" and "Agreed Value" This is important reading for anyone who wants to properly insure their 356. Here's a quote from a key section of the article: "Insurance companies will use one of three different policy forms. They are generally known as Actual Cash Value, Stated Value or Stated Amount and Agreed Value or Agreed Amount. Each of these three forms is different, misunderstood, and frequently misrepresented by insurance agents." "Most collectible automobiles have stable values and slowly appreciate over time. Because the values are stable, an "Agreed Value" insurance policy should be obtained to protect your collectible automobiles. Under an Agreed Value policy, if your car is stolen or totaled, you will receive the Agreed Value listed in writing on your auto policy. Ninety-five per cent of all standard insurance companies do not offer an Agreed...

Installing a Dual Master Cylinder Using Original Reservoir in a 356C

September 23, 2010 | Safety & Driving | 2 Comments
Text and photos by Kurt Anderson When I installed the Klasse356 dual M/C on my 64C, I altered the installation in order to keep the car more stock looking. I did not install their dual reservoir. I kept my original and put a "T" in the line just below the reservoir bracket (it looks stock unless you take the steering coupler inspection plate off). Note from Bruce Baker: "The special blue supply hose is 8mm, so the corresponding domestic 'T' is 5/16ths, not at every home center or hardware store anymore. A good auto supply store is the best bet." From the "T" I ran one hose over the top torsion bar tube, and one hose under the top torsion bar tube. I attached both hoses to the bolt that held the original reservoir line (using rubber padded clamps), and then attached another clamp setup to the body wall just above the pedal cluster. Works great. The dual reservoir is fine, but is not needed. With the "T" and two hose setup, if I sp...

Securing a 6V Optima Battery in T2 & T5 Cars

September 23, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Text and photos by Barry Lee Brisco Many 356ers use the Optima battery in their cars due to its ability to hold a charge even when the car is not driven for months at a time and the fact that the sealed gel cell design means zero acid spillage. However, the non-standard shape of the battery means it does not always readily fit into a 356 if one wants to use the stock setup for restraining the battery. Linus Pauling has devised an excellent system for installing a 6V Optima, and Bob Morris and Jim Hawley have also developed tie-down methods that work well. I have found that a simplified version of Linus's approach works very well in my T2 coupe, and would probably be quite suitable for T5 cars as well. I made both pieces of Linus's setup — the bottom plate with the cutouts, and the top plate with two holes for the battery posts — but found that the bottom plate raised the height of the battery to the point where it was extremely difficult to secure the spring clips onto...