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Tunnel Cable Routing

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
By John Chatley, George Bryan, and Ed Rutherford The photo below (courtesy of John Chatley) identifies the various tunnel cables and connections on a T2 car. 1 — transmission nose / shifter rod 2 — clutch 3 — fuel line 4 — accelerator rod 5 — tach cable to 3rd piece / oil pump cover 6 — rear brake union (note bolt and nut to mount it) 7 — ground strap bolt from trans to body 8a — parking brake cable, driver's side 8b — parking brake cable, passenger's side Larger image The photo below (courtesy of Ed Rutherford) shows the inside of the tunnel of a 1957 T2 Speedster, looking towards the rear of the car. The photo below (courtesy of George Bryan) shows the view from the rear of the car looking towards the front of where the various cables exit the tunnel of a T5 or T6 car.

Restoring Original 356 Floors

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
By R. Paul Hatfield This article is presented to help the owner of a Porsche 356 understand the considerations for restoration of original floors in a 356. I have just completed the restoration of the floors on my 1965 C. This was my third go-round with Porsche floors. Many years ago I first had floor work done for me on my 64 SC Coupe, and that time I paid a professional to weld in new floor panels. In that project we had the floors media blasted with walnut shells to remove the undercoating, and then discovered that the floors were not worth saving. Those floors were found to be inflicted with hereditary Swiss cheese disease (lots of holes). My second battle with Porsche floors was with my 68 Soft Window Targa, and in that case I saved/restored the original floors, beginning with stripping of the original undercoating with chemicals. First off we must discuss several considerations for doing the work. Having now done three sets of floors, I can strongly rec...

Rust Prevention: Myths & Reality

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
By Bud Osbourne and Roy Smalley Roy Smalley: 356's started rusting the first time they got wet. The important issues for car owners to consider in protecting a 356 against rust include: 1) what are your expectations regarding future rust, 2) does one recognize there is no such thing as rust free 3) what can be done to minimize the future potential, and 4) the fact that the potential for rust in 356's cannot be eliminated. I have had occasion to examine a few real restorations (as opposed to refurbish or tart up). These particular restorations were of 'apparent' rust free condition cars by the best restorers in the business within the past 5 years or so. The cars were beautiful from any standard. All had rust bubbles, some almost insignificant to not so insignificant. I won't say that I am in the best category, but one of those cars was restored by me. All were on the exterior skin where it was folded over the inner structure like door bottoms, fenders over inner...

Rust Removal and Rust Prevention

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Jack Bronson As iron is not found in metallic form because of its reactivity with water, oxygen, and other elements or componds, it is safe to assume that what we call rust did not show itself to man until after the start of the iron age, when metallic iron was first produced by smelting. And it has been a major problem since then. The removal of rust is a simple chemical process that can be effected with a variety of substances. What creates difficulties is the size and shape of the object to be cleaned. The degree of rusting influences the approach. Where possible grinding and media blasting can remove much of the worst rust. However the use of acid dipping can be effective with complex shapes. There are many acids that will do the job. For heavily rusted items, Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic acid), will agressively dissolve rust and unrusted metal at the same time, and will go on reacting until all the acid is used up. The object should be thoroughly washed to remo...

Window Regulator Pivot Pin Replacement

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Text and photos by Jack Biersdorff The original pin is made of soft metal and had broken. The new pin is made of steel. You are going to remove the regulator from the door; this requires a lot of pushing and pulling. The regulator is made up of three pieces, several sheet metal parts which are held together with large rivets, a pin and a spring. Spring and broken Pin 1. You can order the pin from one of our parts suppliers, Zims P/N 911.542.042.97. This is listed as "26mm parallel". I do not know why it is listed as parallel. I bought mine for $15 from a fellow 356Talk member who had a spare set. I did receive a comment on 356Talk to be sure and use the correct "orientation" pin. Maybe another year's version? 2. Remove the interior door and window handles. Push the escutcheons back and push the retaining pin through the handle. Be careful because the escutcheons are a molded part and break easily. (Back fill these escutcheons with bondo or such to add strength. If y...

Removal, Repair and Reinstallation of the 356C Window Regulator

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Text and photos by Mark W. Sabbann The window regulator basically consists of a panel piece, two regulator arms, a partial ring gear and the spring assist assembly. See photos 1 and 2 below. The panel piece: Fastens to the inner door with four 10mm ATF hex head bolts Houses the pinion gear attached to the splined window handle shaft. The pinion gear drives the partial ring gear to provide the lifting movement. Supports the spring assist assembly. Is riveted to the lower regulator arm and allows it to pivot The upper regulator arm consists of: One straight regulator arm and one partial ring gear piece riveted together. The straight regulator arm is press-fit to the flats on the spring pivot pin. The partial ring gear pivots around the spring pivot pin between the regulator arm and the panel piece. The 'T' shaped support link: Supports the window. Has two guide pins with spring loaded washers that slide in a channel at the base of the window. Is riveted ...

Trailing Arm Adjustment without VW Tool

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 4 Comments
By Larry Coreth [This article also available as an MS Word file with embedded Excel spreadsheet] In order to begin the car must be on jack stands at the rear or better yet at all four corners. Remove rear shock, axle from trailing arm and support it out of the way. Remove the torsion bar cover Lay out base line with string, 1/8" dia. or smaller out of nylon so it will not stretch too much, from A to B in Fig. 1 (below). The string is tied around the cover mounting boss, the top right one, with the string on top of the boss and taped down at "B", ½" below the center of the bumper bolt holes for "B/C", or 11/16" above the bumper bolt centers for an "A". Then pull tight. In order to mark the center point of the axle on the trailing arm which is located in space, you must use some tape to define its position. Using a pair of calipers, metric or English measure the width of the slot where the axle fits. Divide this number by 2 gives you the radius of the semicir...

Differential Side Shim Thickness Determination from Initial Backlash Measurement

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Larry Coreth [This article also available as an Excel spreadsheet] The following data and charts are intended for those who are equipped with the necessary measurement tools, shop manuals and the desire to setup the ring & pinion having swapped out either the differential carrier or said ring & pinion set. The use of these tables (right) and graphs (below) are straight forward in that you can use either the tables or the graphs since the graphs are made directly from the data tables. Once you have assembled the intermediate plate with all the gears, shafts and bearings and inserted this assembly into the trans. housing, then the differential with bearings and shims (estimated) and finally bolting all this up tight you are ready to do the backlash measurement per the manual. If as usual this measurement is outside the spec. of 0.15+ or ñ .05mm you need only look up the measured backlash on the X ordinate and read up or down to the curve and then over to th...

Custom Dolly for Moving Your 356 Without a Rear End

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Del Sessions and Ralph E. Maines Q: I have my transmission and rear drums out of my car and now I find I have to move it? Whats the best way to move around a 356 with only front wheels installed? A: Moving a 356 without its transaxle is much easier with a "third-wheel dolly" supporting it, as seen in the picture below. I use this regularly at my shop to move disassembled cars for bodywork, painting or storage. A single dolly wheel is attached to a flat steel plate centered beneath the hoop. The hoop is fitted into a slotted square tube or box, centered, and then through-bolted using holes of the hoop. Two angle iron arms are welded to the outer top of the tube ends - and when fastened to the trannie mount points--support the rear of the 356. The front of each arm can be adapted to fit the trannie mounts. They can be drilled for a bolt--or the bolt may be welded on. A fixed bolt makes for easier attachment at the trannie mount. You can use your exis...

Axel Boot Installation

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Alan Klingen and Gerry McCarthy Alan Klingen: The split boot will seal very well when installed correctly and the right boot is used. To put on the solid boot correctly you really need to take apart the axle tube. I like the FEBI brand split boots from Germany, as the fit and the hardware is right. The most common error I see at the shop is the sealing of the halves at the clamp. You must position the clamp so that the action of both halves of the clamp coming together also draws the open seam together. Get as closed as possible by hand and the clamp will do the rest. No need for any sealant when done correctly. Screw together the split first being careful not to tighten the bolts so much that the seam opens up again. I would guess the washers sink into the rubber about 1 mm on each side. You want to position the seam at 10 or 2 o'clock. If possible get the axle level but don't if the method you use is getting the car off it's jack stands. Place the clamp for th...