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Adapting a Modern Bike Rack to a 356

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Text and photos by Ed Hyman I have my old Leitz rack mounted on the 64 356C, just like the one shown here. I stopped in to my local bike shop and they showed me a Thule folding rack #960 (about US$65.00) that straps to the trunk of a normal car. It is designed to hold up to three bikes It fit cleanly onto the Leitz rack. I used four simple U bolts from the local hardware store to clamp it down, saving having to have a slew of tie down straps. [Mounting hardware shown in photos below.] My feeling is that as that one or two bikes are a better match as the Leitz host is attached to the grill. There would be increased stress at the engine cover hinges, if too much mass was applied to the rack. Also a pre-T-6 hinge may be less strong and only one bike would be recommended for earlier 356s. In any event the Thule rack allowed me access to our Lake Waramaug (8 miles around) every day from May to November when it became too cold t...

Replacing White Rubber Strips On A Leitz Luggage Rack

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
By Michael West   The Leitz Luggage rack is an easy to install accessory for the 356 which complements the unique shape of the car. They are still available new or used. I acquired one recently on Ebay in nice condition. It still had its original rubber strips which after 40 plus years had hardened and developed a wrinkled grey surface. The purpose of this article will be to show how I replaced these rubber strips.   Diagram of the Four Strips (Opens in a New Window) My first thought was that you could simply cut the lengths and just push them in. On closer examination the originals are cut and shaped in a more complex way which requires some more thought, skill, and the proper tools to duplicate. As I write this, I haven't yet done the job, but I will document my procedure with the intention to help others who want to take on this enjoyable project. To start with, here's what I've found:   New white rubber strip material is available from several well-kno...

How to Install a Coupe Windshield

September 25, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
By Art Stanwood. With additions by Tim Jones & Todd Rudaitis Q: What's the best way to install my coupe windshield. I know that I first have to install the rubber around the glass, but then what? A: Here's a 14-step process to install your windshield. 1. Get a someone to help you because this is NOT a one person project. 2. Mix up a solution of 60% dishwashing liquid and 40% water. This will be used as a lubricant. Place solution in a squeeze bottle so that you can dispense the solution down into the grooves of the rubber seal. 3. Inject a moderate amount of the lubricant solution into the grove for the windshield. Place a new rubber seal around windshield, there should be some stretching required. 4. Collect the polished aluminum deco pieces that go around the outside of the windshield. Make sure that you have the two cover pieces that go over the joint section of the deco pieces. Having your assistant hold the win...

Roadster Windshield Installation

September 25, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Roy Smalley Click either image for a full size version [Editor: Installing a Roadster or Convertible D windshield is very, very, tricky. The 1961 factory documents shown at below at the right, courtesy of Al Zim, are helpful but are only half the story. Below, Roy Smalley offers his own advice, based on plenty of painful experience. Be sure and read Denis Moore's excellent article on the same subject]. This document does not take into account the difficulty with installing the assembly. There are many issues that have to be addressed supplemental to the bulletin and to the factory Workshop Manual: As the bulletin indicates, the curvature of glass was a problem from the very beginning as the bulletin was issued in 1961. Not only the did the curvature move the lower portion of the windshield back toward the passenger compartment, the thickness of the glass varied all over the place and still does. And the rake of the windshield will affect the adjustm...

Convertible D / Roadster Windshield Installation

September 25, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Denis Moore When installing a Roadster windshield, the key words are "No stress should be on the glass at all." If the frame doesn't fit the glass, the frame can be bent, not the glass. — Bruce Baker [Editor: Installing a Convertible D or Roadster windshield is very, very, tricky. You can also download this article as an MS Word file to print out and use in the garage. Be sure and read Roy Smalley's Roadster windshield installation instructions as well.] Introduction The process described here is for a simple replacement of a broken windshield in an already painted car without other windshield related difficulties, i.e. aluminum strips, seals etc. It would be the same procedure for fitting the windshield to a restored car after metalwork/bodywork has been completed but prior to painting. Removal Remove the wiper arms and the nuts securing the two aluminum hold down tabs for the three trim strips. Remove the three aluminum cowl strips from the lower ...

Plugs for Euro Rear Reflector Holes

September 25, 2010 | Research & Identification | 14 Comments
Text by Barry Lee Brisco, photos provided by Ken Daugherty At the introduction of the 356B model in Sep. 1959, the rear reflectors changed style and location. US export cars generally had a reflector that was positioned above the taillight. European cars generally had them below the bumper. According to Brett Johnson's Guide to Authenticity, "Either configuration was correct, it was a customer option". If the lower position was not used, the hole was filled with a slotted chrome screw (shown at right). In late 1960 vinyl plugs were used (shown at right in photo below). Apparently the lower hole was always drilled in the body, but the upper hole was only drilled if the reflector was going to be mounted above the bumper.

Script Locations

September 25, 2010 | Research & Identification | 0 Comments
By Bruce Coen I was able to locate the original holes on my 1959 Super Coupe. I used the baselines of the scripts and the edge of the hood openings as my reference points. Script locations for other years and models may vary! Front "PORSCHE" : Top of baseline is 42mm or 1-5/8 inches below lowest edge of hood opening. Center line is at left edge of S in PORSCHE. Rear "PORSCHE" : Top of baseline is 65mm or 2-1/2 inches below lowest edge of engine opening. Center line is at left edge of S in PORSCHE. Rear "1600 SUPER" : Top of baseline is 93mm or 3-1/8 inches below lowest edge of engine opening. Center line is at right edge of 6 in 1600.

Golde Sunroof Installation Manual

September 25, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Golde Sunroof Installation Manual Link to PDF file (1.1 Mb)    

The Money of Color: Reflections on How 356 Colors Can Affect Your Pocketbook

September 24, 2010 | Research & Identification | 2 Comments
By Jim Schrager [Editor: This article is reprinted from the 356 Registry magazine, Vol. 21 No. 3 Sep / Oct 1997]   There is probably nothing more subjective than the color of your Porsche. Our purpose here is not to recount the emotional feelings about colors, but rather to note some facts about colors and their effect on the value of your car. Do certain colors hurt the value of my 356? The color which universally seems to hurt is Togo Brown. I have seen some gorgeous Togo Brown 356's sit for months unsold, even when priced way below similar cars in any other color. No other color has quite the same negative effect on value. Should I change from the Kardex color? In general, the answer is no. You will usually maximize the value of your car by painting it the original color (except for brown). However, the new PCA restoration rules have defined an entire concours class where the Kardex is not viewed, so a new attitude about picking a color different from the Kardex may be dev...

Door Striker Plate Removal

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
By: Gordon Watkins, from information he compiled from the 356 Talk List   Striker plates and the backing plates are often rusted in place and it's difficult to remove them. Here are some tips from members of the 356 Talk List: I'd drill off the screw heads, remove the striker plate, and take out the screws with vise grips.   I recently had the same problem. Got 2 out of 3 screws out on each side but the last 2 were tough. I used a screwdriver bit in a variable speed drill, placed it into the screw head, leaned REALLY hard against the drill and slowly started it up. Of course the key is not to ruin the screw head. For awhile I was worried I was going to burn up the drill. Eventually I got them out.   Have you tried one of those impact wrenches that you hit w/ a hammer. Be sure to use a large Phillips bit. If you aren't familiar w/ them , they are cylindrical approx 1 1/2 " dia x approx 6" long. One end has a chuck to accept various bits...slotted screw, Phill...