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Gearing Graphs

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Larry Coreth Download an Excel spreadsheet file to calculate and graph all possible gear combinations per the Spec Book (requires MS Excel or a spreadsheet program that can read .xls files). Scroll down this page to see charts for gearing in various 356 models. Graph showing all standard gears at once. Download printable PDF file of this graph. Graph showing standard Coupe gears. Download printable PDF file of this graph. Graph showing standard C Coupe and Roadster gears. Download printable PDF file of this graph. Graph showing standard Speedster gears. Download printable PDF file of this graph.

Tool Number One: Garage Lifts

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Gordon Maltby Reprinted from the 356 Registry magazine If you could name a single tool that would consistently make your garage life easier, it may well be a hydraulic lift. Under-the-car work is so much easier if you're not on your back, and a bonus feature is the ability to stack cars for optimum use of storage space. Assuming you're willing to adapt your garage to accomodate one and willing to spend the money, the only question remaining is, "Which lift?" Two or four posts Although there are scissors and hinge lifts, single post and in-ground hydraulic lifts available, we're going to focus on the two types most commonly used by a home hobbyist: two-post and four-post, above-ground lifts. Prices for these begin at around $1500 US. The same type of lift from another manufacturer could cost over twice that, however. As with many other products, the design, materials, construction and a myriad of related considerations determine the price of any one brand's produc...

Garage Lifts

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By John Audette, Ken Daugherty, Rick Dill, Ned Hamlin, Lloyd D. Keigwin, David Jones, Dick Weiss, David Winstead John Audette: There's lot to research to do when thinking of installing a garage lift for your 356. TYPES Scissors Lift: For working on a car, not for storage. Single Post Side Lift: Primarily for stacking one car above another. Bend Pak makes a good looking one that the various auto enthusiasts boards online seem to like. Two Post List, Symmetric & Asymmetric: Two post lifts use arms for lifting, as opposed to drive-on ramps. There is more load on each post then with a four post lift and it's recommended that the concrete floor it's mounted on is at least 6" thick to support the load, or that steel plates are used to distribute the load. Ones with connector across the top typically need 12' of clearance: you can put connectors across the bottom but then need to drive over them. Pro's: — The arms free the wheels which facilitates working on the car. —...

Travel Kit List

September 26, 2010 | Safety & Driving | 2 Comments
By Lawrence Wilkinson This spares/tools list might be a bit over-the-top depending on what you're planning to do. The toolkit doesn't include the obvious spanners [wrenches], sockets, etc. Parts Complete distributor, with clamp, timed and ready to go (or points, condenser, rotor, cap) 2 generator bearings and brushes Generator pulley, hub, nut, shims, 2 woodruff keys, and 2 fan belts 1 inner and outer front wheel bearing and grease seal Several spark plugs and a couple of wires (or at least the longest one) + connectors Spare coil + coil lead Voltage regulator Fuel pump (and socket wrench to remove it) or fuel pump diaphragm [consider an electric fuel pump as a spare Fuel filter Some throttle linkage pieces Anti-vibration rubber connection in the throttle linkage (T6) Spare clutch cable with related nuts & fittings Fuses and bulbs Exhaust valve + spring + keepers Valve cover gaskets (2) Valve adjusting screw Sump gasket Oil drain plug Oil filter gasket ...

Building & Using 356 Support Boxes

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Rink Reinking Introduction I have found it useful to have four "boxes" to support my car while working under it performing various suspension measurements and maintenance work. I decided to construct them from ordinary 2x6 lumber and plywood. Here are detailed instructions for making these boxes. Constructing 356 Support Boxes Click here for diagrams (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader> Cut 1/2" plywood* (or strandboard* or waffleboard*) into 4 pieces each 12" by 24". Cut 2x6 lumber into 8 pieces, each 24" long. Cut 2x6 lumber into 12 pieces, each 9" long. Obtain screws, construction adhesive and paint if desired. A power screwdriver with a cross-point bit is very useful. A coarse wood file, power sander or sanding drum mounted on a drill motor can help make finishing easier. Place two long and three short pieces of the cut 2x6 in the arrangement shown in the diagram. Hold together with bungie cord or clamps...

Porsche 356 Bolt & Nut Sizes and Torque Values

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 1 Comment
Getting Down to Nuts & Bolts Is your engine apart and you can't remember which bolts and nuts went where? Do you ever wonder what size bolt or nut is correct for your 356? If your engine has ever been rebuilt you most likely have an assortment of non-original sizes. Once you find the correct nut or bolt do you wonder how hard to tighten it? NOTE: The 356 Registry is making this information available for your use and does not make any specific recommendations on any information contained here.    NUT or BOLT Size Ft-Lbs Axle Nuts 36mm ATF 398 Cam Gear Bolts 14mm ATF 18 Cam Plug Nuts 8mm 15-18 Carburetor Mounting Nuts 8mm/12mm ATF 15 Case Acorn Nuts - Copper Washers 15mm ATF 22 Case Acorn Nuts - Beveled Washers 15mm ATF 29 Case Perimeter Nuts 13-14mm ATF 15-18 Connecting Rod Nuts 14mm ATF 33 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 30mm ATF - Engine Mounting Bolts & Nuts 17mm ATF - Engine Sheet Metal ...

Custom Tools for Your 356

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
Registry members are a clever bunch when it comes to designing and building custom tools for specific jobs on their 356's. If you have a specialty tool that you use, please submit it for publication to Barry Lee Brisco, Website Technical Editor, at barry.brisco@356registry.com . Pickle Fork for Removing Inside Door Handles and Window Cranks Submitted by Bill Shea Seat Recliner Spring Installation Tool Submitted by Wolfgang Nussrainer Crank to Turn 356 motors Over Submitted by Ken Daugherty Crankshaft Holder Submitted by Ken Daugherty Pickle Fork for Removing Inside Door Handles and Window Cranks This device will help you to hold those pesky escutcheons down while you remove the pins from your door handles and window cranks. A great idea developed and built out of milled aluminum by Bill Shea. Seat Recliner Spring Installation Tool When the seat recliner is assembled, bring it in open position and fix it with the lever from the recliner. Attention;...

Interchangeable Parts - VW to Porsche

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
In reference to VW from 1954 to 1965   Most of the following information is from an article written by Bruce Hall that was published in the 356 Registry Magazine, Volume 2 - Number 3, February 1976. The article was included in the "356 Porsche Technical and Restoration Guide", published in 1984 by the 356 Registry. Use this information with discretion. In many cases the equivalent Porsche part is no more expensive than the VW part and may be more reliable. Perhaps the best way to use this information is: (a) for cosmetic parts that are not mission critical and that may be more available and/or less expensive than Porsche parts and; (b) for mission critical parts when you break down in the middle of nowhere and don't have access to Porsche parts. Use your own judgement in all cases and be aware that The 356 Registry is making this information available for your use and does not make any specific recommendations on any information contained here. Please read the Ful...

More Secure Headrest Installation Method

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Barry Brisco Headrests were a 356 factory option. The mounting brackets attached high up on the back of the seat backs and were secured with sheet metal screws: a rather flimsy attachment system which tends to loosen over time, but of course they are "headrests" for comfort on long drives, not modern head restraints that are designed to prevent neck injuries that may occur in an accident. Obviously 356 seats offer absolutely no protection against whiplash (neck hyperextension) injury, which some studies estimate occurs in more than one quarter of automobile accidents. The stock seat backs are simply too low, though typical of 50's and 60's cars. The lack of any head restraint system in my 356 has always been a concern to me: I think it is the most serious safety deficiency now that I have 3-point seat belts installed. But I didn't think the factory headrest installation technique offered any significant safety factor, so I never gave much thought to adding them to...

Seat Recliner Disassembly

September 26, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
Text and photos by Bruce Tuffli [Download this article as a one-page printable PDF file] These instructions are for 356A recliners, but B and C recliners are basically the same. NOTE: THE AUTHOR ASSUMES NO LIABILITY FOR ANY INJURY OR DAMAGE RESULTING FROM FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS Remove small screws (arrows, fig. 1) from cover. If you are disassembling the side containing the seat recliner position lock lever (fig. 2), remove the spring by placing and twisting a screwdriver as shown to relieve some pressure, and pull spring out of its retainer with a vise-grip pliers. Remove the lever by unscrewing its retaining bolt using appropriate sockets or wrenches. Note which way spring is situated. You may want to take digital photos as you go along to facilitate assembly later. Pry up the spring with large screwdriver or pry bar (fig. 3). You may cover this with wadded-up thick cloth while prying if you are concerned about the spring flying, but it should stay pretty m...