By Maurice P. Cruz, the Phillipines
Start-up / Break-in Guidelines
1. Spin engine without spark plugs to circulate the oil before start-up.
2. Use Bosch W6BC spark plugs (.46" extended tip electrode) or W5AC
3. Valve clearances : a. on a new engine, set at 0.008" for all valves for the first 30 - 50 miles b. then set valves to 0.001" more than standard or; c. after break in : set intake at 0.005" set exhaust at 0.007" (Ed: note that factory clearances are .004" intake and .006" exhaust and are preferred by many)
4. For break-in, set timing to TDC. After 2000 - 3000 miles, reset dynamic timing to 30 degrees total advance at 3500 RPM.
5. Keep RPM below 4000 - 4500 for first 500 - 1000 miles.
6. Drive at low but variable speed at cool temperatures
7. Oil temp should not exceed 210 degrees
8. Change engine oil and clean screen/magnet at : 50 miles, 300 miles, 1000 miles, 2000 miles, and thereafter...
Harry Pellow: Try the Maestro's Patented "Binary Search" procedure to find your miss. This technique will narrow the problem down to the individual cylinder (orside) that's bad in two minutes, making it much easier to find and fix the problem.
Before you do the test, you might want to check that the plug wires are installed properly on the correct plugs, the plugs are clean (or new), and the timing (low and high speed) are in the right ballpark.
First find a flat, straight road with no traffic. Go there.
Go to engine. Disconnect the downcoming linkage rod to one carburetor.
Drive car on one carburetor. It'll drive poorly of course, but a good 356 oughta get up to 50+ mph, given long enough and flat enough. If it does do 50mph, stop.
Connect the linkage arm you disconnected and disconnect the other one. Drive on the other carb. If one side only does 25-30 mph, you have a bad cylinder on that side.
Stop. Get out an...
By Ron Scoma
Call it what you will, Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder, Anal Retentive, being a craftsman, or just plain having no life; this is what I did to Cad plate stuff.
Get a list of all items to be plated (thanks Maestro) Find the parts in the Bucket O' Stuff and count the items. Soak in orange cleaner to somewhat degrease, rinse. Soak in Carb Cleaner to really degrease, rinse. Soak in Muriatic acid to remove prior plating. DON'T let the acid come in contact with aluminum (tin foil) trays, I'm not sure why you shouldn't but the end results were very bad. You may not have a screaming S.O. shouting "where's the checkbook, I need to increase your life insurance ?" but still, even without that bonus, the effects were pretty bad. Neighbors in the unit next door were curious also... At this stage you have parts free of grease and oil. Blast with a 50/50 c...
By Vince Cappelletti, Tom Farnam, Geoff Fleming, and Dan Schaefer
Bosch Plug Old / New Part Number Equivalents (provided by Al Zim)
Normal plug for 356
Hot plug use in VW
Normal plug for VW
356/912 leaded gas plug
Editor: The question of what plugs to use in our now 40-plus year-old cars is a frequent one. Fortunately, there are several good choices. Bosch WR7BP platinum (Bosch plug 4232) and NGK BP6HS or BPR6HIX are often used in the 356. Below are specific comments from several experienced 356ers. But if you buy your plugs from well known Registry advertisers they know what should be used in your car! There is no need to guess or listen to someone at an auto parts store who has never seen a 356 and is too young to know what a carburetor is. Additional ...
By Ron LaDow
I wish I could credit this properly: I'm sure it was in a Henry Manny F1 review in Road and Track: "If you need two plugs, there's something wrong with your chamber". It related to a Maserati, and is suitably snotty, but there's a point there.
356 engines improve with the addition of a second spark plug in each cylinder. They improve in overall efficiency, both power and economy. And since the application does not effect engine breathing (with the resultant compromises), it improves matters at just about every RPM which has been tested. Improved overall efficiency means a 356 runs stronger, cooler and with less fuel.
Firing Later, and More Evenly, Maximizes the "Rod Angle"
The reason has to do with the fact that the mixture in the chamber must burn at a given rate, not explode. The burning causes the pressure to rise in the chamber, and that's what pushes the piston down that hole, connected by the rod, thereby rotating the crank.
Ideally, the pressur...
Text by Richard Peattie and Ron LaDow
[Editor] Richard Peattie and Ron LaDow have both developed Excel spreadsheets that enable you to calculate compression ratios when building up an engine.
Ron LaDow [First download Ron's spreadsheet (Excel file) for calculating compression ratios] The spreadsheet will only calculate the compression ratio; the measurements are up to you.
Enter values in rows with italicized captions, as follows in the upper section:
"Cylinder Bore" is entered once in cell B-5.
"Arbitrary", "Net" and "Head Chamber" volumes are entered in columns E, F, G and H for each cylinder.
"Add or Subtract Gaskets" entered in columns C and D; each changes both cylinders on a bank as thatís whatís required.
In the lower section, enter:
"Head Chamber" and "Piston Dome" volumes plus "Deck Height" are entered in columns E, F, G, and H for each cylinder
Add or Subtract Gaskets" entered in columns C and D; each changes both cylinders on a bank as thatís w...
By Alan Klinger and John Wilhoit
[Editor] Dave Brenny asked a question on 356Talk wondering if rebuilding a 356 engine using big bore pistons produce more low-end torque at the expense of horsepower at high RPMs. Two 356 engine veterans responded:
Alan Klingen, The Stable: No single item will make a motor"scream": it is a function of all of its parts. You can make a 1200cc motor feel real good to 10,000 rpm and you can make a 2000cc motor be a very good low RPM motor.
The basic items that make a motor rev freely are the design of the cam, the compression ratio, and porting. There are a few others that come into play like timing ignition curve, fuel management, etc. I have found the biggest limit to a 356 to make good horsepower is the design of the heads: they are in a word, bad. A 911 can deliver 100HP/liter quite easily and be drivable, but to get a 356 engine over 75hp/liter takes some serious effort (and expense).
Of all the dyno testing I have done it seems th...
A Newbie Pulls a Carb — and a few other things
By Steve Dempsey, with a lot of help from Ron LaDow and Tom Farnam
I live in south central Missouri where 356 expertise basically doesn't exist. The nearest shop recommended by fellow 356ers is in St. Louis, about 160 miles away. Recently I discovered the top cover gasket on my driver side Zenith 32NDIX carburetor leaking. Since I couldn't just drive over to a shop and drop the car off, I sent an e-mail to 356Talk to find out if I could replace this gasket without removing the carburetor, something I really wasn't confident in my ability to complete successfully. Although I was assured by several on the list that this indeed could be done, the consensus was that the job was easier if I removed the carburetor. I decided to give it a shot, and as it turns out, this job is really something anyone with basic skills (and a little muscle) can handle. No magic!
"Wide" screwdriver or 14 mm socket and lon...
By Bruce Tews
I do not like leaks of any kind, whether they be engine oil, transaxle oil, or gas, and maybe, especially gas. So, my Zenith carbs leaked, and I was not going to tolerate the leaks. Mine no longer leak, and this is how I fixed them.
First, get yourself a mirror. Mirrors are extremely flat. A one foot by one foot mirror panel from Home Depot or Lowe's is perfect. Also get some JB Weld and liquid teflon in a tube. (More on these later). Tape the edges of the mirror to a flat place, maybe the countertop next to your kitchen sink because you need water for the emery cloth which you will use. Then, if you are up to it, take your Zenith sections apart and do what Ron and others suggest, which is, tape a piece of 300 to 400 grit emery cloth on the mirror and resurface the flat sections of the carbs.
Second, follow their other instructions regarding float levels, etc, including not removing the screw within a screw under the middle carb section.
By David Jones
Provided by Phil Planck: Dimensioned drawing of the short fuel line between the filter and pump on 356 pushrod engines prior to late 1955. It will correctly locate the fuel filter so that it can be disassembled on the car, and properly match up to the fuel line. The fittings and ferrules were available at VW dealers when he made his circa 1990. Print size image Printable PDF file. Ken Daugherty gets his steel tubing from NAPA, PN 813-1235 (5/16" x 60"). See his article on Fabricating Weber Fuel Lines
I decided that as most folks do not know how to bend tubing, that instead of doing it the hillbilly way by bending the tubing around various diameters of pipe I would buy some cheap benders and test them out.
The red handled benders were from Advance Auto and cost $10. The longer chrome plated ones are professional tube benders designed for bending stainless steel which is malleable only once: if you don't get it right the tubing is jun...