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Carrera Oil Lines

May 22, 2012 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 4 Comments
Carrera Oil Lines by Bill Sargent The text below should help those wishing to assemble 356 Carrera Argus type soft oil line ends onto the stainless steel braided oil hose.  The process I use is based on instructions from Warren Eads (Sypder Sports) as well as discussions with Gerry McCarthy and Jim Ansite.  Shown below are the three parts of a carrera small soft oil line hose end. They are the original German "Argus" type fitting with a smooth collar. Current AN type fittings have flats on the collar for a wrench.  Hose end fitting sources:  Warren Eads (Spyder Sports - http://www.spydersports.com) can supply the original Argus type fittings.  As of 2010 Spyder Sports could also supply pre bent hard oil lines for the 356 carreras, however additional bending is required to fit the hard oil lines to a particular car.  Jim Ansite (Ansite Inc - http://www.ansiteinc.com) and Peter Hoffman (Classic Parts - http://www.classic-parts.com) can both supply the Argus hose end fittings with ...

How To Crate a 356 Motor

May 12, 2012 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 3 Comments
By Adam Wright In the global economy we live in today most of the 356 parts we sell get shipped. While this is not big deal when you are selling a switch or a knob when you sell a complete motor it can get complicated. When I sell a motor I always crate it for free, for two reasons. The first being it is good customer service, the second being a damaged motor at the other end doesn't do anyone any good, me or the buyer. Years ago I had to crate my first motor and my first few crates were not very impressive. Big John commented once early on that I must be a graduate of the Dr. Seuss School of Crate-Building, because my crates were rather cartoon like, but they worked! Over time I have perfected a quick method for crating a 356 motor. I have never had a crate fail me and I have sent them all over the world, so this is a tired and true method. Step 1 You have to first get a pallet, I normally get one from Bargain Outlet, they put them out when they are finished with them, so they...

Optimizing the Throttle Linkage

March 9, 2012 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 3 Comments
By David Jones I find that the link behind the fan shroud is a good place to start. This would be pushrod #6 connected to bellcrank #5 in the drawing (shown below). Disconnect both carb downlinks before starting. Make this rod as long as is sensible with the ball connector for the pull rod down to the trans bellcrank as high as possible without fouling any other component. Now look at the connection at the trans bellcrank end of this pull rod #4 and make sure it is aligned with the connection on the bellcrank such that they are almost in line with each other. You may have to lengthen or shorten this rod to make it align and it is also possible that it is the wrong one if it seems impossible to align as Porsche made about 4 different lengths for different models. Once pullrod #4 is set the bellcrank #3 should be positioned such that the arm that attaches to the pull rod from the pedal linkage is at about 10 to 15 degrees before the vertical allowing a decent arc of movement thr...

Debunking the Myth of the Sport Muffler

December 10, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
By John Willhoit The twin pipe "Sport" muffler that some of the vendors sell is actually a muffler that was made by Dansk for the early T1 cars that has no S pipes going through the bumper guard. I guess some marketing person at Stoddard had the idea to sell it as a "sport" muffler since they could sell more. That's been going on for 25 years or so. The outlet pipes have restrictors and this muffler has been proven to not make the same power as a stock, later type muffler (see this article). If you have an early car, buy a stock 356A muffler and add extensions to the stock outlets.The Super Sound muffler from Dansk does in fact have larger pipes inside the muffler, and a larger cross over tube, so it does (should) reduce back pressure and (should) make more power. It is sold with two chrome resonators (very stupid looking BTW), and without these resonators your engine will be really loud and back fire on deceleration. We used one of these mufflers on a car, and the only way to mak...

Throwout Bearing Swap for Easier Clutch Action

November 21, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 5 Comments
By Craig Stevenson, Volume 30 -1 May / June 2006In an effort to make your 356 more comfortable for the future, let me share an upgrade that will not  interfere with the originality of your car and will give especially great advantage to those haunted with leg and hip problems. In my years of working on 356 cars, I have seen several owners having to sell their cars simply because they just could not use the standard shift clutch anymore. Automatics? Please!The simple answer is to replace the 356 throwout bearing with an early 911 type. You cannot, however, just swap the bearings. First, the transmission must have the guide tube-design throwout bearing type 741 used from 1960-65. Sorry about  those  who have early A and pre-A cars, but for those who are utilizing the later 741 boxes in A cars... lucky you!This may seem like a lot of hassle, but let me explain the advantages. The 901 throwout bearing has a much longer center collar that rides on the bearing guide. The bearing is better...

Rebuilding Zenith 32 NDIX Carburetors

June 18, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Ron LaDow(originally published in Vol. 31, No. 4, 356 Registry magazine) If you wish to print this article for reference, you can download it as a PDF file, click here. In beverages, carburetors and other matters, we all have our favorites; I'm partial to Zenith carburetors. The 32NDIX (type NDIX, 32mm throttle bores) were fitted to more of our cars than any others. Whoever worked out, or lucked into, the transition circuitry in these things did us all a favor; no flat spots from idle to wide open. The type NDIX has also been in production longer than any of the stock 356 carbs (until 2005) and they are available at 36mm throttle bores to compliment our aftermarket big-bore kits. Sooner or (mostly) later, they will need attention. But before you decide to rebuild them, make sure that's what they need and what you want. "Zenith problems" are like any "carb problems": 90% of them are directly attributable to something other than the carbs. Carburetors are mechanical objects ...

Reconditioning Flywheels, and a Slight Circumcision

May 13, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Paul ChristensenWhen we rebuild our trusty little engines correctly, we send parts out to be inspected and reconditioned. Often the reconditioning process means removing metal from a surface to expose a new smooth surface for better sealing or contact area. Items that need attention include rocker arms, cylinder head surfaces, bearing bores, cam followers, flywheels and so on down the list. With reconditioning in mind, I would like to bring some attention to the flywheel and clutch surfaces.Depth gage from clutch surface to friction surface, and the Porsche Spec’s book.When the flywheel is reconditioned, the proper method is to remove just enough material from the clutch friction surface so that you have a nice smooth area for the clutch disc to contact. A like amount of material must be removed from the surface that the pressure plate mounts to so that you have the correct depth which is 24,0 mm (.945”) on the 180 mm clutch and 25,0 mm (.984) on the 200 mm clutch. This is the st...

Installing a Dual Master Cylinder Using Original Reservoir in a 356C

January 18, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
Text and photos by Kurt Anderson When I installed the Klasse356 dual M/C on my 64C, I altered the installation in order to keep the car more stock looking. I did not install their dual reservoir. I kept my original and put a "T" in the line just below the reservoir bracket (it looks stock unless you take the steering coupler inspection plate off).  From the "T" I ran one hose over the top torsion bar tube, and one hose under the top torsion bar tube. I attached both hoses to the bolt that held the original reservoir line (using rubber padded clamps), and then attached another clamp setup to the body wall just above the pedal cluster. Works great. The dual reservoir is fine, but is not needed. With the "T" and two hose setup, if I spring a leak in the one-half of the system, it will quickly drain that half of the system and all the fluid from stock reservoir. BUT- since it is gravity feed from the "T" to the M/C, the other half of the system retains all of it's fluid, plus the fluid...

Fan Blade Failure, and a Fix

December 3, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 2 Comments
Text and photos by Jim Ansite and Roy LockYou are enjoying a drive on a lovely fall day. Cruising along at 3400 RPM’s, suddenly there is a loud bang! You quickly shut off the engine and coast off the highway. Getting out of the car for a closer examination, you see a big puddle of oil, a smoking engine, and realize that shutting off the engine was a wise decision.Previously, you had noticed a whistling noise at speed and had tried to have it diagnosed and fixed to no avail. Once you get your 356 up on the lift, shards of metal fall out of the engine compartment. A close examination of the shrapnel indicates a cooling fan failure. As dangerous as those are, all the shrapnel was contained by the engine and its components. It was truly a catastrophic failure. ALL the blades separated from the two cooling fan end plates. Never in my 35 plus years of association with 356’s and 912’s had I seen all the blades separate. Here is the evidence of failure. Here are the pieces of the cooling f...

Why Should I Care About Compression Ratio?

December 1, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair | 0 Comments
By Ron LaDow If you are not contemplating or in the midst of an engine rebuild, you probably don't care about compression ratio. If you are, there are certain facts which should figure in your thinking. Engine life is inversely related to engine RPM. The 'power' an engine makes is largely irrelevant to engine longevity. An engine that makes 100HP at 5,000 RPM, and limited to that speed, will far outlast an engine that makes 75HP at 6,000RPM, and regularly run to that speed. Loads increase linearly with power and geometrically with speed. Engine speeds above 5,000 RPM are where almost all horsepower is quoted since it’s easier to make big horsepower numbers there. It's just not easy to make them at the RPMs commonly used; those big numbers are swapped for power elsewhere in the engine speed range. It's also easy to make noise, and this is entirely too often confused with power. There are four ways of increasing power in the range between 2,000 and 5,000 RPM,...