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Installing a Dual Master Cylinder Using Original Reservoir in a 356C

January 18, 2011 | Troubleshooting & Repair
Text and photos by Kurt Anderson

When I installed the Klasse356 dual M/C on my 64C, I altered the installation in order to keep the car more stock looking. I did not install their dual reservoir. I kept my original and put a "T" in the line just below the reservoir bracket (it looks stock unless you take the steering coupler inspection plate off).

 From the "T" I ran one hose over the top torsion bar tube, and one hose under the top torsion bar tube. I attached both hoses to the bolt that held the original reservoir line (using rubber padded clamps), and then attached another clamp setup to the body wall just above the pedal cluster. Works great. The dual reservoir is fine, but is not needed. With the "T" and two hose setup, if I spring a leak in the one-half of the system, it will quickly drain that half of the system and all the fluid from stock reservoir. BUT- since it is gravity feed from the "T" to the M/C, the other half of the system retains all of it's fluid, plus the fluid in the hose between the "T" and the M/C. The other half of the system will then continue to work fine (I know, I tested it). Of course, as soon as one half of the system fails, I will easily sense the reduced braking effectiveness, and carefully drive home and make the fix.

Not using the kit reservoir let the car remain more stock looking (for those who care), kept me from having to find a place and method to install their reservoir, and most importantly kept me from having to cut two 3/4 inch holes in the body to run the hoses through (as their kit calls for). Either way its an excellent kit with good instructions.

After the installation, I power-bled the whole system, but it was soft and spongy. After I looked over the system, I realized that the brake light switch on the dual M/C system was on top of the M/C, instead of on the front of the M/C as the original was. Ah, what a great air trap. I then backed out the brake light switch, listened to lots of air spit out, and then tightened it back down. Now it works like a charm!

Photos of the Klasse356 dual master cylinder kit installation in my 64C using the original hydraulic reservoir


1. In the photo below of the overall installation you can see the top hose going aft along the inside of the driver's side front wheel well. What you can't see is the "T" where I split the hose just under where it comes off of the reservoir. Nor can you see here the lower hose, or how the hoses are connected to the body so they will not contact the moving parts in the steering and parking brake system.



2. This is the "T" just below the reservoir, and the top hose running aft near the parking brake actuation lever. It has not yet been installed in the clamp that will hold it firmly to the wheel well wall.


3. This photo shows the top hose running aft over the top torsion bar tube, and the lower hose running aft below the top torsion bar tube. On the left is the rubber coated clamps I used to hold the hoses firmly to the wheel well wall. The bolt for this is in the original hole that held the original metal reservoir line clamp


4. This is a close up of the same clamp, which is holding the hoses in place so they don't contact the steering coupler (to the left in photo) or the parking brake cable (above).



5. After passing through the clamp on the wheel well, both hoses travel aft to a point just in front of the body wall that the clutch and brake pedals are just aft of. Here I drilled a 1/4 inch hole on the flat spot where the main electrical wire bundle is held in place on the inside of the subject body wall. I then installed a second set of hose clamps on this bolt (this photo). To install the bolt, I moved the wire bundle out of the way, drilled the hole, put in the bolt, covered it with body/rust sealant, and put the cable bundle back in place. Even with the floor boards removed you can not tell the bolt is there from inside the car. From this clamp the hoses run down at about a 45 degree angle and attach to the short metal tubes that go into the top of the reservoir. I bent the tops of those tubes 45 degrees so they would line up easily with the angle the hoses were coming in at.



In the end, the hoses are very secure and out of the way of all moving parts, and unless the steering coupler/gear box inspection plate is removed, you can not tell from inside our outside of the car that it has a modified (dual M/C) system. Unless you crawl under it of course.

Note from Bruce Baker: "The special blue supply hose is 8mm, so the corresponding domestic 'T' is 5/16ths, not at every home center or hardware store anymore. A good auto supply store is the best bet."

2 Comments

Profile missing thumb
Roy Smalley
November 11, 2010 at 2:06 AM
Check with NLA
Profile missing thumb
Roy Smalley
November 11, 2010 at 2:06 AM
Check with NLA