Contributions from Wyatt Blankenship, Bill Cooper, Max Handley, Jerry Haussler, Tim Herman, John Kehrli, Robert Paxton, and Bill Sargent
[Editor: the question of what silver paint to use on 356 wheels is often asked. NLA/Stoddard sells Wurth Silver in a rattle can that is a very good match, as shown at right (larger photo). For what others have used, read on...]
Wyatt Blankenship: I used Plasti-kote Aluminum 207 plus Plasti-kote Clear 229. Looks real close to what it should be. Found it at PEP Boys. Sand it down with some fine grit paper to remove all rust and loose paint.
Bill Cooper: I have had good results using Dupli-Color #DAL 1679 Silver Metallic lacquer spray paint. This is a non-clear coated moderate sheen paint that approximates the original factory look well, in fact I was complimented on the accuracy and look by a PCA Parade Concours Judge! Available at AutoZone and other FLAPS locations.
Max Handley: The perfect match to the factory silver can be found at Napa Auto. Its called Aluminum Silver (de 1615). It has a ceramic additive and is absolutely the best rattle can I've found in the past 40 years. It's also very durable. Use the Napa Clear coat to finish.
Jerry Haussler: Krylon has a product in their "Metallic" line called Dull Aluminum 1403. It is the closest I've seen.
Tim Herman: CASTLE brand is a very high quality product. We have used for over 30 years. The wheel paint is Castle "dull aluminum" followed up with a clear coat. Great results and right on.
John Kehrli: I have had excellent results with the following and it is in a rattle can, very good silver color match: Dupli-Color Wheel Paint, Base coat #WP316 "Steel Finish" and top coat # WP319 "Clear Finish". This is a polyurethane finish and I got it from my local NAPA store (last time they had to order it for me).
Robert Paxton: I use PPG Products. The OEM VW/Audi color code LY7W (PPG number BC37637 A) You can get this mixed in Concept, Base Coat or single stage. You will also need the appropriate reducers and hardeners. PPG has some very fast drying hardeners now! Here is my take on the primer. You may be right on the original painting scheme of things and one thing for sure is the paint was not applied heavy. If you went through the trouble of glass beading and or sand blasting I would think you would not want to do it again any tme soon again. I would certainly put DP primer (PPG product) on all bare steel once cleaned and as soon as possible after blasting. Make sure that you get it down in the crotch of the wheel! At least 2 coats and let dry well. Use either the gray or the white or blend the two (you can do that: you can even get it tinted to the silver if you want). When ready to put on the silver tack coat with your DP and reduce 10%. Now put on the paint system of your choice. I use this silver for anything that needs to be silver! There is a bit of an outlay cost wise but now you have it for all the projects! Get it in quarts and the price will be decent (it's all expensive).
Bill Sargent: After several visits to the local power coater, plus looking at a local member's coated wheels, Tiger Dylac brand #49 90380 powder is a very close match to the original silver wheel color. Not too glossy, not too much metalic. According to the powder coater it pretty durable, however If you want max durability for a daily driver he recommended clear powder coat over the silver (mind you his definition of daily driver is here in Anchorage with snow 5 months of the year).