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Window Regulator Pivot Pin Replacement

September 24, 2010 | Troubleshooting & Repair

Text and photos by Jack Biersdorff

The original pin is made of soft metal and had broken. The new pin is made of steel. You are going to remove the regulator from the door; this requires a lot of pushing and pulling. The regulator is made up of three pieces, several sheet metal parts which are held together with large rivets, a pin and a spring.


Spring and broken Pin

1. You can order the pin from one of our parts suppliers, Zims P/N 911.542.042.97. This is listed as "26mm parallel". I do not know why it is listed as parallel. I bought mine for $15 from a fellow 356Talk member who had a spare set. I did receive a comment on 356Talk to be sure and use the correct "orientation" pin. Maybe another year's version?

2. Remove the interior door and window handles. Push the escutcheons back and push the retaining pin through the handle. Be careful because the escutcheons are a molded part and break easily. (Back fill these escutcheons with bondo or such to add strength. If you break them they can be repaired this way)

3. Remove the top garnish rail and door panel. Don't forget the screw inside the side pocket. Remember the orientation of the handles and spring on the window handle.

4. I found it good to have the glass about half way down and if loose, tape the window in place by running tape from one side of the glass over the top rail. Mine stayed in place without this.

5. Remove the two small bolts holding the front vertical window channel to the door bottom. This will allow you to move it away and more easily remove the entire mechanism.

6. Remove the 2 small bolts at each of the handles. Nothing will fall out. The window crank and sheet metal parts will stay in place.

7. Push the mechanism to the door outside and slightly rearward so that the window crank shaft is inside the door panel.

8. Push the mechanism rearward to disengage the two roller bearings at the glass bottom. There are two short channels, one at each end of the window bottom. The rear channel is just a bit shorter than the front so that it will come free from the rear first.

9. Remove the mechanism through the rear inner door panel cut out. You may need to lower the mechanism for this. This is a tight fit with the window crank shaft riding on the inside of the door panel. I pushed the window channel away to facilitate this, but carefully so as not to bend it.

Remove and replace through this opening

10. The mechanism will come out as a complete unit, except for any broken pieces. Make drawings and or photos of the unit. The only part that is not self-aligning is the coil spring. Note which way the curved tab on the outer diameter is curved, up or down. This fits over a tab on the mechanism and is preloaded about an eight of a spring turn, not much.

Regulator removed and without spring

11. Remove the spring and pin. Clean and lubricate the metal parts where they rub together.

12. With the coil spring set aside, Install the new pin from the coil spring side. The end with the external flats feeds through the two sheet metal parts and is self-aligning.

13. Place the coil spring over the pin end with the center of the spring sitting into the end grove with the curved end below the sheet metal tab. Remember which way the outer curved end is pointed. Mine pointed down on the passenger door. To preload the spring, grab the end with a pair of pliers and rotate it and rest it on the tab. You will need to pull it away slightly to clear the tab. There is very little force required. I did not use the supplied screw and washers that should be installed into the end of the pin, because it did not allow the mechanism to pass by the window channel. My original pin was not threaded so it had no screw and washers.

14. This is a good time to lube the door handle mechanism.

15. Now I was ready to reinstall. The sheet metal part with gear teeth needs to end up meshing with the window crank gear. Notice that at each end of the sheet metal gear, there is an absence of gears to stop over cranking and allowing the part to come apart from the crank.

View as ready to install

16. Feed the mechanism through the door opening. This is a tight fit and takes a lot of pushing and pulling especially with the crank post riding against the inside door sheet metal. Keep pushing and pulling until the post is positioned into its round door opening. This took me about an hour!

17. Now the harder part. The two roller bearings attached to the regulator mechanism ride in the two channels at the window bottom. The rollers have a larger and smaller diameter portion, the smaller diameter ride in the channel. The front most channel is longer than the rear channel. Fit the front roller into the front channel from the rear of the channel, just barely start the roller and then fit the rear roller into the rear channel. I found this difficult since the rollers were not aligned with the channels. Align the rollers up and down by turning the crank and raising and lowering the window. Align the forward roller to the channel entry by pulling the front roller towards you, then pry the roller forward to just barley enter the channel. Then push the rear roller away from you to be able to enter the channel. Wedge something between the inner door and roller then pry the regulator forward into the channels.

18. Replace the four bolts holding the regulator in place and the two bolts at the bottom of the window channel.

19. Exercise the window to make sure it works properly.

20. Have a beer.

21. Replace the door panel with inner window handle spring, escutcheons, handles and top garnish rail.

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