(no subject)


09/21/2000 04:34 PM

Richard Glastonberry in London, England
Please contact me off line. Thanks

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10/08/2000 07:22 AM

I was interested in Mark's recent comment on 8 volt battery's. In our part
of the CA there are thousands of old 6 volt tractors still in use, many of
those have been using 8 volt batteries to improve starting and lights.
I've had no problem running 8 volt batteries is my tractor, but I am really
hesitant to put one of the things in my 356. After all, the Ford 9N doesn't
have wipers, turn signals, etc. I have been curious for a long time if I
could run a 8 volt in our 356's with no deleterious effects. How 'bout this,
Jerry Garwick
Ruby 64C

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10/08/2000 01:11 PM

This subject has been brought up before.
And, I still don't like the 8 volt battery.
Remember when charging it is putting out
9.6 volts. This will decrease the lamp life.
That is simple physical law.
The Ignition Starter sw. will fail sooner.
The only saving grace is the crank time
might be less. (I squared T). Higher
solenoid current.
Now let us talk of the radio, oh the tractor
didn't have one, well your 356 does.
If you have a Blauplunk with tubes the
filament current is going up, which means life
goes down.
The 8 volt battery is a way of not fixing the original
systems 6 volt. However, what ever floats your boat.
356 Electrics
-----Original Message-----
From: FGarwick@aol.com
To: 356talk@356registry.org <356talk@356registry.org>
Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 1:59 AM
Subject: (no subject)

>I was interested in Mark's recent comment on 8 volt battery's. In our part

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11/07/2000 03:09 AM

356 Talk Digest VOL #2 - Monday 06/11/2000
like, wow, man! Do we take this all too seriously, or what?
Enough, already, with the Net Nazi stuff, pro and con.
Volunteer organizations need all the (free) help they can get, so yes, we are
indebted to Robin, Rick, Chris and all the officers, trustees, etc., and they
are human, too. Is this what's called a "learning experience?"
Everyone, please, retain a sense of humor and perspective.
We have a disease, and the only cure is on life support itself!
I liked the "$.25 and a phone booth" comment. I predate P/C's, cell phones
AND 356s........so I suggest we should all;
1) share any PROVEN knowledge we possess concerning our collective
affliction, if we so desire, since we now have this wonderful medium.
(I would still like to see continued dialogue on how to authenticate advice
for "accuracy" beyond the 'caveat emptor' disclaimer.)
2) have our brake work done/at least checked by a professional ("if it
doesn't stop, it shouldn't go")(that should shift the debate)
3) lighten up, be glad we have what we have and can do what we do, and can
get help doing it. I reckon that for me 1 in a 100 posts tells me something
new or reminds me of something I've known but forgotten, but we should all
remember to exercise the right to 'delete'. So, Never-Sieze the moment and
vote. Tuesday. (All) (yeah, I know, "this is where it all started")
Here's to keeping the baby, Faith! That's why you're reading this, right?
Remember, Ferry and his dad are smiling while looking down on all this, so
why not us, too, for being so intense over a car that is AT LEAST 35 years
old from a design that's as novel as a Harley! Are we nuts? (brass, steel,
sintered bronze, copper, 12, 13, 14 ATF....ad nauseaum) What did we do before
computers? (ans.- read the shop manual, improvise, overcome and adapt)
Thanks for allowing me this space.
Bruce Baker

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11/18/2000 06:20 PM


12/14/2000 04:28 AM

For those that asked, the person I spoke of earlier that is lost to the list
is a SoCal resident. I you have been on the list 2-3 years, you probably
know of whom I speak.


12/15/2000 04:05 PM

If I made it into your address books, please note new email address:


12/16/2000 03:43 PM


12/26/2000 09:28 PM

re: 1964 356 C horn repair
Horns will not operate, presently removed and on test bench. Style: one big
round horn. Have rebuild kit, but see nothing in kit that will make horns
work again. Any suggestions as to where to get started would be appreciated.


03/08/2001 04:29 AM


03/14/2001 12:32 AM

Have just purchased a '64 356C. Am looking for recommendations on
engine, transmission, and body work in the Reading, PA area. Thanks.
Reply to deakonblue@earthlink.net


03/15/2001 01:55 AM


Please don't assume the pushrod tubes or seals are the culprit. You
have oil seeping past the lower cylinder head bolt seals. These become
and shrink, crack and harden with age. Soon oil leaks past them and
a pushrod tube leak.
With the engine in the car, I have eliminated this sort of leakage
by simply
removing the valve rocker assembly, thereby gaining access to the head
I next undo one bolt, examine it, and if the shaft is oily, there is a
great chance
that this is a culprit. The next step is to put on a new seal and
retorque the bolt
to the proper setting. Do this with the other three lower bolts...only
one at a
time, and torque them carefully. The next step is to re-attach the
assembly and have the valve clearances properly set.
Although this is an unorthodox procedure, it can be very effective.
I drove a
356 daily, in New York, until 1998, so I have experienced every sort of
leak and
annoyance that can occur.
I've seen owners remove the engine and carefully replace the
pushrod tubes,
seals, etc., only to have the exact leak upon fire-up!
There is a small chance that the pushrod tubes are leaking, but
don't jump
to that conclusion without first addressing the head bolt seals.



03/20/2001 01:46 AM

Anyone ..re: Sparkplug fouling
For trouble free driving in all weather conditions and all
speed ranges,
try using Bosch WR-7-BP platinum plugs. These are not made for 356s, but for
Saab/Volvo cars: however, they are the absolute best and are impervious to
I drove my 356 daily in New York through 1997 and can attest
to the
reliability of this plug. It will far surpass anything else available...in
fact you may
never change plugs again. I averaged about 30,000 miles before examining
with temperature variations from -6deg to 105deg.
Forget what is reccomended, use WR7-BP plugs ONLY.!
A few words of caution...the 911 uses WR7DP which is a longer plug DO NOT
USE! ALSO...don't ask for sparkplugs for your Porsche...these are made for
Saabs & Volvos...the shop will probably think you want the 911 plugs...I've
that happen.
Geoff Fleming


03/20/2001 10:14 PM

If you have an electric tach, and the needle oscillates at odd
times, there
is most probably something happening with the coil or distributor.
The electric tach "telegraphs" any interuptions in ignition
current. I would
try replacing the coil with another that is known to be good; also check
the dis-
tributor for any shorting or gap problems. The tach is telling you
On the other hand, if you have a jumpy mechanical instrument, it
simply be in need of cleaning or the cable may be wearing.
The gas leakage that disappeared is most likely a case of
This might happpen on extreme hills or very sharp turns taken at speed, if
your float level is very high...I'd check it and bring it down to a lower
While checking the float level, also examine the float itself and the
valve...these can sometimes not close properly and allow a little flooding
to take place.
Geoff Fleming


03/21/2001 03:18 AM

Capping off the heater holes on the rear-most sheetmetal will
do no harm. The car will run cooler.
Even when new, these heat actuated valves never shut off all
the hot
air entering the engine bay. With an air-cooled engine, you want to
extra heat sources from infiltrating the cooling airflow.
I've driven my cars for almost twenty years with these
passages capped
off...even in sub'zero temperatures.


03/22/2001 02:29 AM

The best jacking spots on the 356 are: Rear: Under the transmission hoop or
place a four foot section of two-by four lumber across the floorpan at the
rear bulkhead edge, You can then safely jack the rear of the car. Is changing
one rear wheel, place the (sissor) jack under the protruding ends of the
torsion bar on that side of the car. Of course, C models don't have
protruding ends, so if your car isn't rusty, the jack can be placed under the
sheetmetal surrounding the torsion bar area.
At the front: The jack should be placed under the sway bar attachment areas.
An alternative is the brace area just under the large opening for the
tie-rods. Of course it wouldn't hurt to use a wood "buffer" between the jack
and the car.
Never use the Porsche jack...the reasons are: A.) You are lifting the entire
side of the vehicle for no good reason. The car tilts away from the jack, and
if it should slip, you might find out just how much damage can be done to the
side of the car from contact with the tool!
B) If
the car has substantial rust in the longitudinals the jack receivers can be
torn away.


03/22/2001 02:47 AM

356 ers:
Anyone looking for needle bearings for the front torsion bars on the
356 should go to the local bearing outlet and ask for #HK4520. This is a
commercially used bearing and is priced at about $15.00. If you order these
through the usual Porsche suppliers excpect to pay $100.00 each, The
bearings are made by a number of companies.
Most bearings used on a 356 can be had by quoting the number forund
on the race of a removed bearing...they will always be much less expensive
also, if you use a bearing supply house. The only bearing that I can't find
is the set used in the steering box, marked,"Star"; however, these are never
worn unless the owner drove the car with the steering box bone-dry for many


03/22/2001 02:49 AM

Good hearing from you...your email address didn't connect though. Are
you available for the trip to Gerry McCarthy's this Sunday? Please let me
know. Say hello to Carol and the small furry beast!



03/22/2001 02:53 AM

Re: Radio Repair
The absolute best person working on these radios is Wilford
Wilkes...he advertises in the 356 Registry. I've used him in the past and can
highly reccomend his work and honesty. He has been doing this work for
decades and is quite a historian on all things in the car radio world.



03/22/2001 02:56 AM

Re: Round opening under dash:
This is an opening for an electric socket which can be utilized with
any accessory on hand ; such as rally lights, emergency light, electric
shaver, (yes!), and almost anything else. They are still available and quite


03/22/2001 02:25 PM

Thanks Geoff,
Ordered 4 form my local bearing supply house for $12.50 each.
----- Original Message -----
To: <356talk@356registry.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 6:47 PM
Subject: (no subject)

> 356 ers:


03/22/2001 04:52 PM

I use mine for my radar detector.
Dina Reed
55Pre-A Speedster #80699
----- Original Message -----
To: <356talk@356registry.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2001 9:56 PM
Subject: (no subject)

> Re: Round opening under dash:


03/23/2001 12:09 PM

At 21:29 3/21/01 EST, FLEMINGGEOFF@aol.com wrote:
.......At the front: The jack should be placed under the sway bar
attachment areas.
I disagree...particularly on open cars. Jacking one corner of an open
car can twist the body. New windshield anyone?
...You are lifting the entire side of the vehicle for no good reason......
There are sometimes good reasons to jack up one side of the car. When
disassembling a rear hub it helps to first let the oil drain from the axle
tube back into the trans.
Just my experience.
Mike Robbins


03/23/2001 05:46 PM

>From my experience, with solid cars and solid longitudinals, a floor jack
under the side jack sockets, well inboard and well padded with a flat piece
of wood and a piece of carpet, works well to lift the car. That lifts the
whole side of course, but no problem with that. Then lower the car on
jackstands. For the rear, I put a jackstand under the lower curved part
beneath the torsion bar, padded with a small piece of carpet and for the
front, under the frame cross member where it emerges, which is plenty strong
- not much weight up there. You can reach under there without actually
getting under the car, and center it precisely. Lower carefully and place
precisely. Then, when jacking the other side for the same, check carefully
several times as the car goes up to make sure the jackstands remain centered
and are not beginning to tilt - the rear one can be the problem there. An
indelible lesson is when you neglected to check and each few inches and it
then it slips, the door gets scraped by something, and you feel grateful you
weren't under it. Finally, when the car is firmly settled supported by four
jackstands, I then place a floor jack under each side, again under the side
jack sockets and well padded, and jack it up so it holds slight upward
pressure, for redundancy and safety i.e. an entirely independent support
system. Also, two other jackstands under the car, even under the floor -
rather bend the floor of my car than my own body in case something slips or
fails. Finally, before going under, I double check all key jackstands for
weight centered on them and no tilt or off balance of any kind and that the
supports are all aligned and independent of each other. All this takes a
little time and I'm sure there are quicker ways just as good, but this has
worked well for 30 years and I feel reasonably safe under the car, and safe
to apply some pressure with a wrench where needed. But I never let down my
guard anyway and keep looking around at the supports to make sure nothing is
giving way.Steve Gurney


03/24/2001 09:55 PM

I have a stubborn, iritating nut on the oil sump that will neither tighten
nor loosen. This is making dropping the sump impossible. May I have any
ideas from you that might be less destructive than chisels and dynamite.


03/25/2001 01:35 PM


03/25/2001 03:14 PM

In time the oil sump plate will deform and leak. While out, turn upside down
(magnet up) on a hard surface and take a flat punch to reform the dimple. I
have made a special stepped punch out of brass just for this purpose. Works
for me... Ken Daugherty
.----- Original Message -----
To: ; <356talk@356registry.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: (no subject)

> This is a 6mm nut and can be easily stripped which sounds like the case


04/15/2001 07:57 PM

Ken I tried to view your pictures of the T5 and was unable to get to the
site! Maybe it was not written down correctly. Please tell me more about
the car and give the picture site address again!
Thanks, John D


04/16/2001 05:33 AM


04/16/2001 06:05 AM

In a message dated 04/15/2001 10:34:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
UntermanS@aol.com writes:
<< Not that it probably matters much, but is the pin which connects the fuel
selector lever to the stopcock valve the typical cotter pin with both halves
going through the holes or a thicker diameter pin >>
The looser the better! Use a "Normal cotter pin" and not too big or tight as
the lever can put an extra bit if stress on the fuel cock causing it to leak.
"Sloppy" fit of the lever to the fuel cock is necessary!
Dana Point, CA.


04/16/2001 06:10 AM

In a message dated 04/15/2001 10:34:45 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
UntermanS@aol.com writes:
<< I thought that putting on a split rear axle boot would be a no brainer -
that is until the new boot leaked transmission oil. I've read that the seam
should be horizontal and not vertical. My bet is that I overtightened the
screws and clamps. Are there any tricks involved? Also, what's the deal
with the clamps Stoddard sells with the split boots? Should I use those or
the standard type screw clamps?
Thanks for any help. The weather is too nice for jack stands. >>
Using the Jack stands alone may be the problem. Get the axle tubes @
operating level before tightening the clamps with a jack or car on the
ground. If not, they will be clamped in the wrong spot on the tube and when
you lower the car onto the ground, boots get stressed into a position that
may cause a leak or even tear the boot!
Dana Point, CA.


04/22/2001 05:35 AM

Not only did Paul learn to share his love of cars with kids, but with us
older types also. Paul spent a lot of his time helping me with some handling
problems in my car. He doesn't know me but was willing to share his valuable
time with me and I'm sure many of you also. Thank you Paul for sharing your
knowledge and love of automobiling (esp 356's).
Bob Price
'60 super 90 roadster 88324


04/27/2001 01:36 PM

I have an engine casing for a 1960 Porsche Carrera stamped 12.60.and
692/3A serials are 692 101 102 00-4065 on the right and 692 101 101
00-4064. I would like to sell it but have no idea of its worth.Can
anybody help me out. Russell