Just picked up my car from the shop that dropped in a 1958 super engine. Drove it away from the shop, made it 1 mile, slowed down for a red light and the engine stalled out. Trying to start it, it sounds like a dead battery...barely turns over. Hooked up a jump box but it still barely turns over. For the hell of it, we pushed it and was able to get the engine running but it died again. The shop said they fully charged the battery. So, where do I or the shop where I'm having it towed back to begin diagnosing? Ignition switch? Regulator? HELP!

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Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe

Could it be a clutch issue (when you step on the clutch pedal, the clutch is not fully disengaged)? That would explain the stall and the difficulty turning over. If it is slow turning over when the transmission is in neutral, then the clutch is not the issue. I have a more severe version of this problem in one of my MGs. I am going to have to pull the engine to fix it.

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Does it even in neutral.

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Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe

Greg, I would check all electric connection starting at battery and working from there, then go to a load test of battery, then draw test of starter, then starter bushing for wear. Dirty connections and or old wires being corroded internally can cause a system to act like bad or weak battery. These are the only things that come to mind right now but sure other members will chime in with other thoughts. Good Luck. George

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George E Walling

So someone put a motor in your ride. Just a motor R&R or did you ask them to really check over your ride and report.

Just the motor and the motor seems fine but it seems to have developed an electrical gremlin in the meantime.

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Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe

I'm thinking at this point it might be a short somewhere from the ignition switch to the rear of the car, bad ignition switch, regulator, or dizzy. The ignition switch and bad wiring to the engine would seem most likely since it cranks over very slowly, might finally start, then dies after a minute or so. Thoughts?

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Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe

Greg, troubleshooting over the internet is somewhat problematic. Your thought that it is in the wiring between the ignition switch and the engine is a good one, but one that only you can check with the proper instruments. People can come up with literally hundreds of causes for what you describe. You're probably going to be the one to figure it out to a certainty.

Good luck with it, and let us know what you find.

Cheers,
Wes

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Greg;
For what it is worth here is what I would do to eliminate causes. Run a jumper wire from B+ on the regulator to the hot side of the ignition coil. This will eliminate the ignition switch and if you start the car and it runs then after a minute or so remove the jumper and if the engine dies start looking for the problem in the switch or the wiring. If the starter turns slowly then try jumping again from B+ to the starter solenoid and see if it runs faster. Also after running the starter touch all the main starter cable connections and see if any are warmer than normal (as in HOT) If so clean and tighten those connections especially the battery ones. Also check the small gauge wire on the battery pos+ connection for corrosion as that can be a source of low voltage to the ignition circuit under load.
I assume you know the starter bushing is good and you have a Porsche starter not a VW one?
Just be happy it is a 356 not the MG midget I am working on with Lucas electrics and all the associated gremlins.

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David,
Why would a Bosch starter for a VW not crank as well ? Neither VW nor Porsche make starters, they both get them from Bosch. Per the Bosch data (below) both the VW and the Porsche version have the same Hp rating (0.5ps) ! The only difference is the position in degrees from vertical of the solenoid. This means the VW starter does not fit properly on the 356, but it can be done so I’m told.
So looks to me if you can make the VW type starter fit, it will crank the engine just fine !
OK, that’s me soapbox rant for today.

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The VW starter fits just fine, except on pre-As.

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Are you sure it's an electrical gremlin? Has the car got sufficient gas/petrol, did they fill the new engine with oil, etc.?

Just out of curiosity, was the car running before you put the new/used motor in it? If it was then it would seem likely the problem is related to the motor? Too simple I am guessing.

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No cigar. For a while now it's been hard to start and then when warm she would die and not want to restart. Responding to earlier posts, new gas (1/2 tank), and oil is topped off. I'm guessing the ignition switch is wonky. But, the shop has it back so they can do the troubleshooting.

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Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe

Some early VW starters had 2-brushes(?) and gave .4HP;
later starters had 4-brushes and gave .5HP.

Dick