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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:58 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Am still in Beijing, but thanks to the wonders of the internet I have a the 67mm version of the Filter King filter/regulator on the way to Alaska from a vendor in the UK called "Rallynuts". Will probably beat me home. Order filled promptly and UPS tracking info provided. This smaller unit (compared to the 85mm version I have) should fit behind the 4 cam shroud. I also purchased some spare diaphrams, seals, filters and the glass filter bowl. Many thanks to Nigel Cousins in the UK and Brad Ripley for aiming me in the right direction.

Zero 356s sited in Beijing, but lots of new high end 911s.

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2012 3:16 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Got back from China last Sunday and am just now getting over jet lag. Unusual for Beijing, we had clear skies for about half the trip (most of the time the air pollution looks like lite fog...)
Attachment:
File comment: Family day out on the Great Wall near Mutianyu.
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Today was my day to pay my friend Ralfy back for all the help he has given me. We had his friend Jerry's 62 notch over to soda/crushed glass blast the bottom, front trunk, engine compartment and interior. Took about 10 hours and came out pretty good. There is a local blasting service that has a trailer mounted unit that comes to you.
Attachment:
File comment: We have the notch in the same roll over frame that my car was in for the last year.
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File comment: Came out pretty well. Jeremiah with Bullfrog Blasting does a great job.
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While the notch was getting blasted I went to work on the Filter King 67 mm fuel regulator/filter that arrived while I was away.
Attachment:
File comment: The 67mm unit is quite a bit smaller than the 85mm one. It came with a mounting tab which I cut off so that it could be mounted like the original using the top cover bolts to hold the unit to a bracket that in turn bolts to the bracket welded to the firewall.
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Attachment:
File comment: The fuel inlet and outlet are also better placed on the smaller unit than the larger one.
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To get the filter/regulator unit to fit I had to relocate the mount bracket that I previously welded to the firewall in the stock location and make a new mount bracket to attach to the filter/regulator that is similar to the factory one. I also had to drill some mount holes thru the firwall for the breather can to mount to, and install some weld nuts on the interior side.
Attachment:
File comment: Made a mount bracket that fixes to the top cover bolts like the original.
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Attachment:
File comment: Filter/regulator and breather can mounted prior to painting the firewall. And yes I had the 4 cam blower fitted to make sure everything clears. This is the last of the engine compartment work.
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Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 2:03 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Over the weekend I finished up painting the firewall and installing the breather box and the fuel pressure regulator/filter. Both fit nicely behind the 4 cam shroud and I did not have to move the regulator/filter to the left of the left hinge as I thought I might. The smaller 67mm Filter King unit made the difference.
Attachment:
File comment: Only thing I may still do is to try and remove the horizontal fuel outlet from the regulator/filter and put a soft plug in that hole. there is a soft plug in the side that I can remove in order to drill it out to 10 mm, thread it and use a banjo fitting. That way the fuel line out to the motor is pointing down like the original carrera unit, not straight back as it is now.
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Next up was to install the S shaped parking brake actuating lever and the steering dampener - both attach to the front torsion bar tube and could not be installed while the car was on the roll over frame. It was a bit of a PITA, but I finally got it done.
Attachment:
File comment: I went ahead and got the pricey Koni dampener so the steering geometry would be stock. Parts manual diagram showed the dampener mounting to the top of the pitman arm, but there was not enough room with the new tie rod ends, so I mounted it on the bottom. It seemed to fit fine, but those more knowledgible please let me know if this creates a problem. It has the full range of motion with no conflicts.
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Attachment:
File comment: Once all the parking brake and steering dampener bits were installed I could button up the access hatches with the GT alloy covers supplied by PR Services (Mike Smith) in the UK. Battery box is starting to look like it should - a far cry from the mashed up mess with a 4" square hole cut in the bottom I started with!
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Before installing the lower hood latch and making any adjustments I thought I better install the emergency opening cord.
Attachment:
File comment: I took Jim Liberty's suggestion from an earlier Talk post and used stainless safety wire twisted with safety wire pliers and then coated with shrink wrap tubing. It exits thru a rubber plug grommet.
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Attachment:
File comment: Out in the left front fender well I created a loop to pull on. it is easy to get to just above the oil cooler. Stainless so rust is not an issue. And it works!
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Next up was to reinstall the front bumper. For now I removed the over riders and bar. Later the bumper will get a GT deco strip. Of course there was a problem. The weld nut on the inner bumper bracket mount on each side had come loose and the prior owner had turned them over and poked the snout of the weld nut thru the hole. Lord knows how he tightened the bolt - actually they were loose. Repair was fairly easy - sequence shown below.
Attachment:
File comment: Area where weld nut goes under cleaned and hammered back to shape
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Attachment:
File comment: Position of the weld nut under the bracket marked and 4 small holes drilled to weld thru.
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Attachment:
File comment: Weld nut positioned inside bracket where it originally was and held in place for welding with a bolt and nut.
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Attachment:
File comment: Holes welded up and then ground flat with surrounding metal.
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Attachment:
File comment: Done. One on the left was repaired. One on the right just had some surface rust. Cleaned both up and shot some rattle can etch primer to seal things up. Good enough until outer body metal and paint are done later.
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Tomorrow's task is to remove the horns mounted in the carrera location in order to access the front two bumper mount bolt locations (it is always something) so I can mount the front bumper. Fog and driving lights will also get installed. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 2:00 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Got both bumpers back on the car, minus the bumper over riders and bars. Will save those for a future custodian who may wish to return the car to a more stock configuration.
Attachment:
File comment: One of the bumper irons on the drivers side was bent a little so it took some time with the vice and long angle iron clamped in various places to get it bent back to the correct shape. Once done the bumper mounted easily. Wires hanging out are for the fog and driving lights.
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Attachment:
File comment: Rear bumper went back on fairly easily. I may modify the front mount bolt on the left side as it will be trapped behind the dry sump oil tank. I think I can cut the nut bar short and use a short bolt and nut that can be removed with the oil tank in place.
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While I was cleaning and painting the rear torsion bar tube where the roll over frame was mounted I decided to install the starter. A while back I purchased one of the "Hi-Torque" starters - the 12 volt model with the 6V gear - model IMI 105. It fit without any mods to either starter or car, however the terminal that the battery cable mounts to is on the top, making it somewhat difficult to tighten the nut.
Attachment:
File comment: Starter in place. Relay on the end is one of Joe Leoni's starter relay kits.
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Attachment:
File comment: View of the battery cable connection to the starter from the engine compartment (engine out). There is about 1/2 inch clearance between the battery terminal on the starter and the tar paper insulation above.
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Going over to Gary Tone's tomorrow to do some machine work on the wheel spacers and fog light mounts. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 1:22 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Went over to Gary's house to day to use his mill. I needed to modify the fog light brackets I purchased at the LA Lit meet last year. There were several issues - the hole the light base fits in was too small, the clamps were not cut quite wide enough to fit over the double bumper irons and there was not enough room to turn the nut that secures the lamp to the bracket.
Attachment:
File comment: Got all the machining done and the brackets fit well now. I routed the wires out thru the hole where the over rider support used to be and used a large rubber gromet to fill the hole.
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Attachment:
File comment: Bracket fits pretty well and positions the light just inside the horn grill - do not want to disrupt the air flow to the oil coolers.
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While I was at it I did a trial fit of the headlight grills. Tony Smetona makes a few sets every once in a while and I was lucky enough to get these about 18 months ago. Very nice quality.
Attachment:
File comment: Marchal lights are from NLA. I saw a red carrera speedster at Wilhoit's at last year's LA Lit meet that had one fog and one driving light. I decided to do the same on my car.
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Attachment:
File comment: Found some reproduction Marchal lamp covers at the LA Lit meet this year.
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Next tasks are to install the head light grills and paint the rear torsion bar where the roll over frame was. Thanks for following along.

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:28 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:02 pm
Posts: 674
Location: Southern California
Tag: It’s only a hobby.
Bill
WOW! The attention to detail is amazing. Thanks for documenting the build, it's great to follow.

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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 3:54 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Took the afternoon off today and worked on final cleaning of the oil tank and installation of the headlight grills. The oil tank is a reproduction, one of 5 that Tom Tate had made several years ago. I used phosphoric acid to clean the inside of the tank and then used the zinc phosphate conversion fluid to leave a nice no rust phosphate coating inside the tank.
Attachment:
File comment: Put the fluids in the tank and sealed all the small holes with boat plugs. Used several layers of cling film wrap held on with a rubber band on the filler. Let the tank set on each side for about 15 mintues before emptying and rinsing.
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Attachment:
File comment: After emptying out the conversion fluid the tank was rinsed several times with hot water, emptied and then I set my heat gun on low and let it blow thru the tank for a couple of hours to make sure it was dry. Then for good measure blew it out with shop air. Looks nice and clean inside. Ready to install.
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While the oil tank was soaking, I worked on the headlight grills. I had previously installed headlight grills on my 64 cab so it went a bit quicker this time. The grills supplied by Tony Smetona fit very well. All in it took about 3 hours to install both grills.
Attachment:
File comment: To locate the grills I taped nuts the same height as the tennax fastener assembly. Worked well last time and again this time.
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Attachment:
File comment: Tape used to position the grill. Once it was in the right position I used a sharp steel pick to poke thru the center of each mount hole and put a small hole in the paint where the hole for the tennax fastener needs to go.
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Attachment:
File comment: First set of holes drilled. Drilled some test holes in some scrap sheet metal. 7/64" was the best size to thread the tennax stud into.
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Attachment:
File comment: This is one of the holes drilled for the tennax studs. No filler anywhere around the headlights!
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Attachment:
File comment: Had to use a rubber mallet to gently tweek the grill frames a little to get a perfect fit, but nothing to rough. Grills are done. Taped the hood straps on to see how they look. Will install them tomorrow.
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Tomorrow the oil tank and the hood straps get installed. Then off to dinner with friends for the 4th of July. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 4:00 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 3:34 pm
Posts: 1003
Looking great Bill, thanks for sharing!

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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 3:07 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Got a little more done over the last 2 evenings. Once the oil tank was cleaned I put a quart of oil in it, plugged all the holes and sloshed it around to coat the inside of the tank. Then emptied out the excess. Should protect the inside of the tank until the motor is installed and the tank placed in service. The actual tank installation went pretty easy.
Attachment:
File comment: Tank install was easy, however getting the German DIN spec overflow hose onto the vent pipe on the oil filler neck was another matter. I finally resorted to my heat gun and leather gloves. Once good and hot it finally submitted to my will......barely!
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Attachment:
File comment: Dry sump oil tank is a later carrera II type with the oil outlet toward the rear of the car. Works well in my application with the location of the inlet on the dry sump pressure pump. I have boat plugs in the oil outlet and the oil temperature ports to keep junk out til I am ready to install the motor.
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Attachment:
File comment: Tank screen installation also went fairly easy as it had been pre fitted. The small plate on the left of the screen about half way up is stampled with the chassie number of the car. Saw this detail on Justin's real tank screen.
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on the morning of the 4th I went back over to Gary Tone's and spent about a half an hour on his mill and cut down the rear wheel spacers from 20mm thick to 15 mm thick. This was the cheap remedy to the paper thin tire/fender clearance. The expensive remedy would have been selling the 185 tires and getting 165 tires.
Attachment:
File comment: If you know what you are looking at the spacers look a little thin, but it works. And it is a Faux Cam anyway!
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Attachment:
File comment: And now I have 4 to 5 mm of clearance between the tires and fenders.
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And so the answer to a question I posed on the main forum several months ago (will 185/70 x 15 tires on stock 4.5" rims with 20mm spacers fit under the rear fenders of an A) is NO. But they will fit with 15mm spacers.

This evening I got the hood straps installed. The first choice was where on the hood to place them. I had two examples to go by:
Attachment:
File comment: First was a "back in the day" photo of a 59A carrera GT cab Posted by Freddy R. Note that the tops of the straps are about the same level as the crest on the hood handle. And about half the total strap assembly is either side of the hood line.
356A T2Carrera Cab GT.jpg
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Attachment:
File comment: Second was Ed Cave's A Coupe done in GT style. Note that the top of the hood straps are further up the hood.
59 A Coupe GT.jpg
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After trial fitting the straps in both positions I liked the version on the "back in the day" photo, but found that this placed the mounting screws where they would have to go thru the internal hood frame. Thus the position on Ed's car was the only one I found feasible as it places the top of the straps just above the internal frame. It does raise a question though as to just how the straps were mounted on the car in the old photo! In any event after much measuring, mounting with tape and standing back to look I started drilling.....and everything fit fine!
Attachment:
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Attachment:
File comment: Before mounting the straps I took them apart and soaked them in Neatsfoot oil to waterproof them (per Warren Eads of Spyder Sports recommendation). It darkened them some, which is what I wanted.
DSCN3095.JPG
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Tomorrow I hope to complete the install of the above tunnel shift set up I purchased about 18 months ago from the late Ken Dougherty. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2012 1:12 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Worked on fitting and installing the above tunnel shift kit today. Apparently Ken Dougherty copied it from the original one in Ray Knight's Sauter roadster. Fairly simple affair - raises the shift lever base to be in line with the shift hockey stick coming out of the transmission nose. Uses a coupler and an Empi adjuster to allow fore/aft and rotation.
Attachment:
File comment: General installation with the shift rod cut to length. Ken supplied the long VW bus shift rod and you must measure and cut it to length. Was pretty straignt forward. Used the T handle in the foreground to check that the tranny would shift into all gears before starting the fit up - it did; Vic did a good job.
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Attachment:
File comment: Shift tower bolts into the original mount holes, so no cutting. Will only work with speedster seats. Coupe seats are too close together to allow the shift rod to go back to the tranny.
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Attachment:
File comment: Here you can see the coupler (black) and the Empi adjuster (silver).
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I only had one problem in setting things up. I could get in to all 4 forward gears, but not into reverse. I finally figured out that the cup on the shift rod was too high on one side and was not letting the shift lever move far enough to get to the reverse gate. Solution was a carbide burr on the die grinder. Made several cut and fit cycles to be sure not to take off too much.
Attachment:
File comment: Side of the cup closest to the camera was ground down to allow the sifter to engage reverse. It was the same height as the side farthest from the camera.
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This fixed the problem and once everything was re-fitted all the gears could be engaged. The next step was to weld the threaded part of the Empi adjuster to the shift rod.
Attachment:
File comment: Since the guide ring on the shift tower has to slide over the rod I drilled holes on either side of the shift rod to weld up and secure the adjuster.
DSCN3107.JPG
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Attachment:
File comment: Adjuster part welded in and the welds ground off. Nice smooth finish.
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DSCN3109.JPG [ 92.68 KiB | Viewed 601 times ]

All that is left is to bead blast the parts and paint them the same beige color as the steering shaft before doing the final installation. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 3:07 am 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Today was spent doing a lot of small tasks that had to get done some time. First up was the nasty task of cleaning the old adhesive and junk off the alloy cover that goes over the front part of the tunnel and off the shift linkage cover. The above tunnel shift tower is wider than the hole in the alloy tunnel cover, so it needs to go on first.
Attachment:
File comment: I used the nasty marine pait stripper and it made quick work of the old adhseive. At least it was warm enough to do it outside.
DSCN3111.JPG
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Attachment:
File comment: Same treatment for the shift linkage cover after I managed to pry the tar paper sound proofing out of the inside all in one piece. Will run it thru the bead blaster and then paint it.
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Attachment:
File comment: I had some felt left over from doing the gas tank straps so I used some 3M trim contact adhesive to replace the trashed original felt. Ready to install.
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I also got part way thru the final installation of the shift linkage.
Attachment:
File comment: since it will be a while before the car gets new carpet I painted the outside of the alloy tunnel cover the same steerig column beige that the shift parts were painted. I have a set of the tan rubber mats from International Merchantile as well as some Coco Mats to put in the car, so the tunnel cover will match somewhat. I also put spacer washers under the shift tower so that it was not just crushing the alloy tunnel cover, but instead has a solid footing.
DSCN3122.JPG
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Once the tunnel cover was in, the pedal boards were installed. I had the originals, but they were broken and missing pieces in places, water damaged and warped. The new set from Sierra Madre was OK, but not great. I had to trim them in a few places to match the holes and size of the originals. If you need concours quality look elsewhere. I also removed the snap fittings from the original boards and used pop rivets to install them on the new pedal boards.
Attachment:
File comment: You can see the broken part on the drivers side original pedal board. You can also see some differences in the holes compared to the new ones.
DSCN3123.JPG
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Attachment:
File comment: Once the new pedal boards were trimmed, they installed easily.
DSCN3124.JPG
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Last task for today was to install the engine lid. Went pretty easy and fit is great.
Attachment:
File comment: I am going to leave the lid in epoxy primer for now. No sense to paint it a color that will eventually be changed.
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Attachment:
File comment: Only hitch was the latch was not returning to the correct position when the lid was opened. Problem was a lack of lubrication in the tube guiding the wire that opens the lid. Shot some liquid teflon areosol lube in the guide tube and that solved the problem.
DSCN3119.JPG
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Tomorrow's tasks are to finish installing the shift linkage and to install the seats. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 7:30 pm 
356 Fan
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Joined: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:03 am
Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Today was a short but fun day making the car look more like a car. I got the speedster seats installed with zero problems. Seats and GT seat bases came from Russ at Fibersteel and, unlike some things you buy that did not originally come on your car, these fit perfectly the first time. Kudos to Russ & Fibersteel.
Attachment:
File comment: Mounting the GT seat bases was straight forward.....once I got the seat runners on the correct sides of the car. The above tunnel shift tower had to come off as it is too wide for the seat bases to be installed while in place. Fortunately the seat bases do not need to come out that often.
DSCN3126.JPG
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Attachment:
File comment: Attaching the seat was simple enough. Only 4 screws, and the seats can be removed with the shift system in place (but not the seat bases). I tried several lengths of bolts for the rear height adjusters to find ones that gave me the seat rake I liked.
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After the seats were in, I could install the rest of the shift system. Since it had been pre fitted and tested it went back together without problems - and I can get into all gears!
Attachment:
File comment: Bead blasted and painted all the parts steering column beige so they will fit in better with the oatmeal carpeting to be installed later.
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File comment: My original shift knob was long gone however Eric Cherneff of 356 tool fame sold me a nice original with great patina about 18 months ago. Perfect finishing touch.
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After the shift system was in, I installed the rear tan mats from International Merchantile (Terry did a small run last year) and the Coco Mats.
Attachment:
File comment: I went with the "natural & white dot" pattern Coco Mats to give a little bit of contrast with the oatmeal carpeting.
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File comment: Speedster seats were upholstered by Tony at Autobahn Interiors in San Diego. In the front I only installed the Coco Mats for now as the mats and drivers floor board will need to come out to adjust the clutch and throttle linkages. Plus I need to buy the snap fittings that go on the front rubber mat so I can snap it to the fittings on the floor boards. I also have to remove the shift tower again to fit the tunnel rubber mat and cut it around the shift tower and heater knob.
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Since I was on a roll and things had gone quickly I decided to see if I could install the soft top. Car is starting to really look like a car again!
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File comment: I got the top installed all by myself, but it was not easy. It really is a two person job.
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All that is between me and the road is a motor, putting in all the various fluids and grease, adjusting linkages and getting the car aligned. I plan to put my spare 12V generator on the 1960 super motor that I took out of the car last year and drive with that while the faux cam motor is being built. I will also have to fit the Sebring exhaust and replace the leaking rear main seal (the leak that started this whole restoration saga :D ). I hope to be driving and getting things sorted in a couple of weeks. Building the faux cam motor will happen in parallel. Thanks for following along!

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 7:26 pm 
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Posts: 139
Beautiful, Bill! It's been sunny and 80 degrees down here in Seattle. Finish that Faux Cam and bring her on down.

By the way, if you're around, the Bullsession is at Denny Aker's place on 15 July and the weather is supposed to be nice.

Cheers

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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2012 10:46 pm 
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Posts: 577
Location: Beijing, PRC
Hi Nick,

I think getting a motor in the Faux Cam by this weekend would be a stretch too far, but my 64 cab is at Brad Green's place in Seattle. Only two problems - last minute ticket prices to Seattle and lack of time to get everything done here in Alaska - think I will have to give it a miss. But I am thinking of driving the Faux Cam down to Seattle in September. Any events in the first half of September?

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Bill Sargent
#151489 59A Cab - the Faux Cam
#159176 64C Cab


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 Post subject: Re: Restoring #151489 - building a faux cam carrera
PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 12:42 am 
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Posts: 654
Bill, its really looking great! You have so many cool parts for this car! I love the shift tower and the direct hook-up to the trans eliminating the drop linkage. Very cool!!!
Justin

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